CALIFORNIA 
AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE 

CIRCULAR  9 
February,  1927 


RABBIT   RAISING 


H.  M.  BUTTERFIELD  and  W.  E.  LLOYD 


PUBLISHED  BY 

THE  COLLEGE  OF  AGRICULTURE 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 


Cooperative  Extension  work  in  Agriculture  and  Home  Economics,  College  of  Agriculture, 
University  of  California,  and  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  cooperating.  Dis- 
tributed in  furtherance  of  the  Acts  of  Congress  of  May  8  and  June  30,  1914.  B.  H.  Crocheron, 
Director,  California  Agricultural  Extension  Service, 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  PRINTING  OFFICE 

BERKELLY,  CALIFORNIA 

1927 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2011  with  funding  from 

University  of  California,  Davis  Libraries 


http://www.archive.org/details/rabbitraising09butt 


RABBIT  RAISING 

H.  M.  BUTTEEFIELDi  and  W.  E.  LLOYD2 


INTRODUCTION 

Importance  of  the  Rahhit  Industry. — Rabbit  raising  as  a  profitable 
enterprise  has  become  well  established  in  many  parts  of  the  United 
States,  but  nowhere  in  the  country  has  the  industry  been  so  greatly 
developed  as  in  California.  California  is  probably  producing  from 
70  to  80  per  cent  of  all  the  rabbits  in  the  United  States.  Southern 
California  alone  sold  approximately  one  million  dollars  worth  of 
rabbit  meat  in  1925,  and  the  number  of  rabbits  dressed  weekly  has 
been  estimated  at  twenty  thousand.  In  addition  to  the  domestic 
supply  there  were  more  than  twenty-tw^o  million  dollars  worth  of 
undressed  rabbit  furs  imported  in  1925^.  Australia,  Belgium,  the 
United  Kingdom,  and  New  Zealand  supplied  the  greater  part  of  our 
imports. 

Branches  of  the  Industry. — The  products  of  rabbit  raising  are 
meat,  fur,  breeding  stock,  and  fancy  stock.  A  limited  number  of 
rabbits  are  used  in  laboratories.  Rabbit  manure  is  a  by-product  of 
considerable  importance  where  rabbits  are  kept  in  large  numbers. 

Meat  production  ranks  first  in  importance  with  fur  production 
gaining  in  importance  and  popularity.  Rabbit  leather,  hair  for  felt, 
glue,  and  fertilizer  are  by-products  from  the  establishments  using 
rabbit  pelts.  The  complete  utilization  of  all  rabbit  products  is  im- 
portant in  securing  the  greatest  possible  returns  in  the  industry. 

Borne  Dangers  to  Avoid. — Rabbit  booms  have  occasionally  swept 
the  country,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Belgian  Hare  craze  of  several  years 
ago.  The  recent  World  AVar  greatly  increased  rabbit  raising  as  a 
means  of  adding  to  the  meat  supply.  Sudden  and  abnormal  increases 
in  rabbit  production  usually  lead  to  financial  loss  because  the  pro- 
ducers are  unable  to  find  a  ready  market  for  the  products  at  prices 
that  will  allow^  a  fair  rate  of  interest  on  the  high  prices  paid  for  stock. 
The  high  prices  paid  for  breeding  stock  during  the  rabbit  booms 
rarely  bring  a  profit  to  anyone  but  the  established  breeder. 


1  Supervisor  of  Agricultural  Correspondence  Courses,  College  of  Agriculture. 

2  Associate  Poultry  Husbandman  in  the  Experiment  Station. 

3  Dept.  of  Commerce :    Bureau   of  Foreign  and  Domestic  Commerce.     Annual 
tabulation  of  coney  and  rabbit  pelts  imported.     1925. 


4  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

Some  recent  investments  in  the  production  of  fur  rabbits  are  not 
founded  entirely  on  a  safe  basis.  Too  often  the  promoter  is  primarily 
concerned  with  the  sale  of  real  estate  or  else  in  the  disposal  of  breed- 
ing stock  at  fancy  prices.  The  beginner  who  hopes  to  secure  a  de- 
pendable and  adequate  return  on  his  investment  over  a  period  of 
years  should  very  carefully  consider  the  economic  side  of  the  problem 
before  investing  his  savings.  Rabbit  raisers  as  a  rule  have  made  only 
very  modest  profits  and  there  is  nothing  in  present  conditions  to 
warrant  expectation  of  large  returns  for  meat  or  fur,  considering  the 
industry  over  a  period  of  years.  There  is  no  real  advantage  to  the 
industry  in  established  rabbit  producers  profiting  at  the  expense  of 
beginners. 

Beginners  are  cautioned  to  be  wary  of  the  buy-back  schemes 
because  most  contracts  offered  are  not  enforceable.  Some  of  the 
profits  held  out  as  possibilities  are  so  much  above  the  average  that 
the  prospective  investor  should  require  extra  evidence  in  the  case 
before  spending  his  money.  The  question  is  not  what  the  profit  has 
been  in  some  exceptional  case  but  rather  what  the  investor  can  hope 
for  under  his  own  limitations.  It  is  always  better  to  figure  conserva- 
tively on  the  investment  and  the  profits  and  then  be  favorably  sur- 
prised later  on.  Questionable  firms  should  be  required  to  give  depend- 
able references  and  name  the  financial  supporters.  Any  firm  which 
refuses  such  information  ought  to  be  held  in  suspicion. 

Some  beginners  have  been  unfamiliar  with  what  constituted  a 
healthy  rabbit  and  often  there  is  a  pitiful  lack  of  knowledge  as  to 
what  the  standard  is  for  the  breed  concerned.  As  a  result  these  small 
producers  are  unable  to  compete  successfully  with  established  breeders 
and  failure  is  almost  sure  to  result.  Even  with  the  best  stock  the 
breeder  must  continually  cull  out  and  dispose  of  the  off-grade  animals 
in  order  to  maintain  qualities  which  will  meet  the  buyers'  approval. 

Further  Considerations  for  the  Beginners. — The  possibilities  for 
success  in  the  rabbit  industry  are  dependent  on  certain  conditions 
that  may  exist  in  any  district  and  also  on  the  prospective  producer. 
Both  factors  are  vital.  A  temporary  profit  from  high  priced  breeding 
stock  should  rarely  be  a  sufficient  inducement  for  investing  but  if 
dependable  markets  for  meat,  fur,  and  breeding  stock  are  available 
and  the  beginner  feels  sure  that  he  is  capable  and  willing  to  properly 
tend  the  rabbits,  a  fair  income  may  be  expected.  In  some  ways  the 
rabbit  industry  is  very  promising  and  yet  there  are  many  problems 
which  need  to  be  worked  out  before  the  owner  can  feel  assured  that 
success  is  as  dependable  as  in  poultry  production  or  in  other  branches 
of  agriculture  where  markets  are  developed  and  business  questions 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  5 

largely  settled.  It  is  natural  to  expect  that  as  any  business  passes 
from  a  sideline  occupation  to  a  principal  source  of  income  where 
methods  for  marketing  on  a  large  scale  are  only  partially  worked  out, 
there  will  be  a  time  when  beginners  will  need  to  proceed  cautiously. 

The  income  from  rabbits  has  been  mor^  uncertain  than  from 
poultry  as  a  general  rule.  Rabbits  take  less  land  but  more  labor  than 
chickens.  The  cost  of  feed  for  a  rabbit  for  one  year  has  been  esti- 
mated at  $3.50  to  $3.75  and  the  cost  of  feed  for  one  doe  and  her 
yearly  increase  of  20  young  is  very  close  to  $12.00,  taking  California 
as  a  whole.  This  includes  the  cost  of  feed  until  the  young  are  about 
two  months  old.  Feed  and  land  costs  are  usually  greater  close  to  the 
large  cities  yet  these  costs  are  in  part  counterbalanced  by  a  somewhat 
better  market  for  the  products  where  direct  marketing  is  feasible. 
An  income  of  about  $5.00  for  each  breeding  doe  above  cost  of  feed 
has  been  obtained  in  some  rabbitries  catering  to  the  meat  trade.  Pro- 
ducers who  were  in  a  position  to  sell  some  breeding  stock  have  done 
better  and  occasionally  an  income  as  great  as  $1.00  a  month  for  each 
breeding  doe  has  been  secured.  The  beginner  should  figure  conserva- 
tively and  $5.00  for  the  offspring  of  each  breeding  doe  would  be  about 
all  that  he  should  figure  on  unless  he  is  so  situated  as  to  do  better 
than  the  average.  More  will  be  said  about  costs  and  income  at  the 
close  of  this  circular. 

Ultimate  success  in  the  production  of  rabbits  is  very  largely 
dependent  on  quality  of  production,  quantity  of  production,  economy 
of  production,  and  efficient  distribution  and  marketing.  These  factors 
may  seem  self  evident  and  yet  the  neglect  of  any  one  may  lead  to 
mediocre  success  or  possibly  failure.  The  following  discussion  will 
take  up  these  matters  in  some  detail. 


BREEDS  AND  BREED  STANDARDS 

Every  prospective  producer  should  become  familiar  with  market 
demands  in  order  to  select  rabbits  which  w^ll  find  a  ready  sale.  Some 
rabbits  will  satisfy  the  market  demands  better  than  others.  For  ex- 
ample, a  market  that  prefers  a  small  fryer  rabbit  weighing  fro5n  one 
and  one-half  to  two  pounds  dressed  weight  will  justify  the  producer  in 
considering  a  breed  of  rabbits  that  develops  early  and  soon  reaches  a 
marketable  condition  with  a  low  feed  cost.  Rabbits  which  are  slow  to 
develop,  or  which  do  not  fill  out  well  when  young,  are  better  suited 
for  markets  using  large  meat  rabbits  weighing  from  three  to  five 
pounds  or  more. 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE 


[CiRC.  9 


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1927] 


RABBIT    RAISING 


Many  breeders  cater  to  a  fur  market  and  sell  the  meat  from  rabbits 
producing  the  fur  for  whatever  it  will  bring.  The  meat  from  a  six- 
months-old  fur  rabbit  will  usually  weigh  four  or  five  pounds  or  more 
and  therefore  it  is  important  to  find  a  market  that  is  willing  to  take 
dressed  rabbits  of  this  size  with  the  somewhat  lower  quality  that  is 
usually  represented.  The  production  of  breeding  stock  calls  for  a 
very  wise  choice  from  the  many  breeds  now  available.  The  newer 
breeds  usually  sell  for  more  than  the  old  establifihed  breeds  and  the 
beginner  should  anticipate  a  drop  in  prices  for  some  of  the  present 


Fig.  1. — 1,  Ear.  2,  Eye.  3,  Nose.  4,  Mouth.  5,  Dewlap.  6,  Cheek.  7,  Neck. 
8,  Chest.  9,  Shoulder.  10,  Flank.  11,  Loin.  12,  Saddle.  13,  Hip.  14,  Tail. 
15,  Hock.     16,  Belly.     17,  Leg.     18,  Foot.     39,  Toes. 


high-priced  new  breeds.  In  nearly  all  cases  the  final  choice  will  rest 
on  the  value  of  the  animals  for  meat  and  fur. 

Rabbit  raisers  may  profit  by  visiting  other  rabbitries  where  the 
rabbits  are  being  grown  for  commercial  purposes.  When  making 
these  visits  it  is  well  to  observe  closely  and  listen  attentively  but  to 
reserve  conclusions  until  considerable  experience  has  been  obtained. 
Study,  observation,  and  experience  will  all  have  their  place  in  deciding 
what  breeds  are  best  and  what  methods  should  be  followed  in  produc- 
ing and  selling. 

Another  way  to  see  what  others  are  doing  is  to  visit  rabbit  shows. 
Shows  will  give  an  idea  of  the  comparative  popularity  of  the  various 
breeds  and  incidentally  the  requirements  for  winning  a  prize.     The 


8  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

Guide  Book  and  Standard  of  the  American  Rabbit  and  Cavy  Breeders' 
Association  lists  the  breeds  and  varieties  and  gives  standards,  and  the 
shows  illustrate  how  closely  the  producers  are  approaching  the  ideal 
set  in  the  standard.  A  knowledge  of  this  standard  is  desirable, 
whether  the  rabbit  raiser  expects  to  exhibit  or  not.  Table  1  includes 
the  important  breeds  and  indicates  outstanding  points  of  utility  value. 
Rabbit  raisers  use  many  terms  which  are  peculiar  to  the  rabbit 
industry  so  the  beginner  may  find  the  points  of  the  rabbit,  as  shown 
in  figure  1,  useful  in  understanding  some  of  the  breed  descriptions. 
Other  terms  are  defined  below  : 

Bars — Color  bars  on  the  feet. 

Blaze — White  color  on  the  nose  running  up  between  the  ears  on  the  Dutch. 

Butterfly — A  dark  butterfly  marking  on  the  nose,  as  on  the  Checkered  Giant. 

Cased  sTcin — A  skin  removed  without  cutting  down  the  belly. 

Chain — Color  markings  on  the  side,  as  on  the  English. 

Cobby — Short-coupled  or  stocky. 

Herringbone — Color  markings  along  the  spine,  as  on  the  Checkered  Giant. 

Kindle— To  give  birth  to  young. 

Lacing — Black  coloring  around  the  ears,  as  on  some  New  Zealand  Eeds. 

Lazy  tail — A  tail  tliat  is  slow  to  assume  its  normal  position  when  moved. 

Litter — The  young  born  at  one  time. 

Putty  nose — Where   color   runs   together   on   nose   of   American    Checkered 

Giant. 
Screw  tail — A  tail  that  is  crooked — a  disqualification. 
Smut — Eefers  to  black  color  on  the  nose,  as  on  Himalayan. 
SnaTcy — Slender. 

Stops — Black  color  on  the  hind  feet,  as  on  Himalayan. 
TicTcing — Wavy  black  coloring  on  the  outer  fur,  as  on  New  Zealands. 
Wry  tail — A  tail  that  remains  at  one  side — a  disqualification. 

Selection  of  Breeds. — Most  rabbit  raisers  find  it  best  to  start  with 
not  more  than  one  or  two  breeds.  It  is  far  easier  to  learn  the  char- 
acteristics and  requirements  of  one  breed  than  of  several,  and  conse- 
quently success  is  more  certain  when  only  one  breed  has  to  be  con- 
sidered. As  skill  is  acquired  and  markets  are  developed  the  producer 
may  find  it  profitable  to  cater  to  several  kinds  of  demands. 

Certain  breeds  have  become  quite  popular  because  they  have 
returned  a  profit  and  have  met  with  the  approval  of  buyers.  For 
example,  the  Belgian  Hare,  the  New  Zealand  Red,  and  the  Flemish 
Giant  are  very  popular  for  supplying  the  market  demand  for  high 
quality  meat.  Among  the  fur  rabbits  the  Chinchilla,  the  American 
Blue,  and  several  varieties  of  Silvers  produce  the  highest  quality  of 
furs  and  at  the  same  time  have  considerable  meat  value.  All  of  these 
breeds  are  produced  in  quantity  so  that  stock  is  easily  purchased  and 
the  market  demand  is  kept  up  by  a  regular  supply.     Some  of  the 


1927] 


RABBIT    RAISING 


Fig.  2.— A.  New  Zealand  Eed  buck.     B.  White  Flemish  buck.     C.  Gray  Flemish 
buck. 


B 


Fig.  3. — A.  Checkered  Giant  buck,  a  splendid  specimen.  Winner,  Oakland, 
1922.  B.  Argente  de  Champagne  (French  Silver)  doe.  C.  Chinchilla  doe  of  good 
type. 


1927] 


RABBIT    RAISING 


11 


newer  breeds  might  be  more  popular  if  they  could  be  secured  in  larger 
quantities  and  at  a  less  expense.  The  introduction  of  a  little  known 
breed  is  not  always  a  paying  undertaking.  (See  figures  2  to  5  for 
illustrations  of  some  of  the  popular  breeds  of  rabbits.) 


B 


Fig.  4. — A.  Himalaya  rabbit.     B.  Black  Dutch  doe,  the  best  doe  of  this  breed 
at  the  State  Fair,  1922. 


There  are  general  considerations  which  should  affect  the  choice  of 
breeding  rabbits,  regardless  of  the  breed  or  variety.  Some  of  these 
points  are : 

1.  As  healthy  and  vigorous  as  possible  under  various  conditions 

of  climate;  not  unduly  susceptible  to  disease. 

2.  White,  fine  grained,  firm,  delicately  flavored  meat,  in  the  case 

of  meat  rabbits. 

3.  High  dressing  percentage  with  a  large  percentage  of  the  best 

meat  cuts  (saddle)  ;  should  be  compact,  meaty,  with  fine  bone 
for  the  meat  trade. 

4.  Early  maturing,  reaching  market  weights  and  desirable  plump- 

ness at  an  early  age. 

5.  Sufficient  value  to  pay  for  keep  to  the  time  of  marketing  and 

still  leave  a  profit  for  the  producer. 


12 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE 


[CiRC.  9 


6.  Thrifty  on  inexpensive  food. 

7.  Able  to  reproduce  true  to  color  and  type. 

8.  A  good  breeder  the  year  around. 

9.  Females  good  mothers,  able  to  bear  and  rear  large  litters. 

10.  Available  and  in  regular  demand  at  fair  prices  for  producer 
and  buver. 


Fig.  5. — A.  New  Zealand  White.     B.  White  Angora. 

Breeding. — The  first  concern  of  the  breeder  should  be  with  utility 
rather  than  with  fancy  stock,  because  profit  comes  before  pleasure. 
Rabbit  breeders  have  too  frequently  wasted  much  time  on  character- 
istics that  were  unimportant  from  the  standpoint  of  utility.  Leg  bars, 
black  toe  nails,  and  nose  or  ear  markings  have  little  effect  on  the 
utility  of  any  rabbit. 


1^"^]  RABBIT    RAISING  13 


PRINCIPLES   OF    BREEDING 

Purehred. — A  rabbit  is  eligible  for  registry  as  a  purebred  when 
it  meets  the  existing  breed  standard,  as  established  by  organized 
breeders,  and  can  show  the  ancestry  of  both  parents  back  to  the  great- 
grandsires  and  great-granddams.  Usually  the  parents  are  purebreds 
but  at  present  they  do  not  necessarily  have  to  be  registered  purebreds. 
The  trend  is  toward  more  registering  as  indicated  by  the  policy  of  a 
new  national  organization  which  plans  to  close  all  registry  books  on 
January  1,  1928  to  all  rabbits  which  are  not  the  offspring  of  registered 
parents.  Registering  an  animal  in  no  wise  adds  to  the  breeding 
qualities  of  the  animal.  Rabbit  breeders  can  expect  greater  uniform- 
ity in  the  purebred  rabbits  and  can  expect  these  purebreds  to  pass 
these  characteristics  on  to  the  offspring  more  certainly  than  rabbits 
which  have  not  been  bred  to  standard.  The  closing  of  registry  books 
to  all  but  the  offspring  of  purebreds  is  only  a  further  step  on  the  part 
of  organized  breeders  to  maintain  the  greatest  uniformity  in  the 
recognized  breeds.  Some  recognized  standard  is  essential  before  any 
systematic  breeding  can  be  undertaken.  Standards  for  new  breeds 
will  likely  be  established  from  time  to  time  and  changes  in  old  stand- 
ards made. 

Cross  Breeding. — Cross  breeding  refers  to  the  breeding  of  animals 
of  dift'erent  breeds.  Usually  the  animals  in  such  crosses  vary  greatly 
and  the  characteristics  of  the  progeny  cannot  be  foretold,  whereas  we 
can  know  with  some  degree  of  certainty  what  the  characteristics  will 
be  when  we  are  breeding  purebreds.  A  rabbit  of  unknown  breeding 
or  which  does  not  meet  the  breed  standard  is  commonly  called  a  scrub. 

Line  Breeding  (see  fig.  6). — The  breeding  of  animals  from  a  single 
line  of  descent  as  in  a  family  or  in  families  of  a  common  ancestry  is 
called  line  breeding.  The  ancestry  is  limited  to  a  few  generations 
back  as  a  rule.  Such  breeding  combines  in  the  progeny  the  character- 
istics especially  desired  and  attempts  to  exclude  everything  outside  of 
the  chosen  ancestral  line.  This  purifies  the  pedigree  and  fixes  the  type 
within  the  limits  of  the  particular  line.  There  is  only  slight  danger 
of  outside  or  alien  traits  appearing.  Results  may  be  predicted  and 
there  is  a  strong  hereditary  influence  to  hasten  improvements  in  the 
desired  direction,  because  of  a  lack  of  alien  or  mixed  blood. 

In  line  breeding  it  is  important  to  make  the  matings  both  from  the 
pedigree  records  and  from  individually  selected  animals  in  the  pens. 
The  type  and  condition  of  the  individual  is  just  as  important  as  the 
pedigree. 


14 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICUI/rURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE 


[CiRC.  9 


Inbreeding. — Inbreeding  is  line  breeding  carried  to  the  extreme, 
such  as  mating  father  with  daughter  or  mother  with  son.  In  some 
cases  breeders  even  go  so  far  as  to  breed  brother  with  sister.  Most 
breeders  feel  safer  in  introducing  outside  or  unrelated  blood  after 
crossing  father  with  daughter  or  mother  with  son.  Outbreeding 
refers  to  this  introduction  of  unrelated  blood. 


Male  Line 


13 

Unrelated     16^ 


Blood 


•First 
generation 


-^Second 

generation 

--Third 
Y     generation 

— Fourth 
^       generation 

8 


•F  if  til 
generation 


^     £L       A       X      ^ 

52  32  2  32 


— Sixth 

generation 


Fig.  6. — Blaclc  stands  for  male  line.  White  stands  for  the  female  line.  Blaclc 
lines  trace  back  to  the  male  parent.  Dotted  lines  trace  back  to  the  female  parent. 
Cross-lined  circle  at  the  left  shows  the  result  of  outcrossing  or  the  introduction  of 
new  blood. 

Mating  Rahhits. — Rabbits  which  have  reached  maturity  and  repre- 
sent the  best  individuals  in  the  desired  type  may  be  mated.  Most 
rabbits  do  not  reach  a  breeding  age  before  seven  or  eight  months.  If 
related  animals  possess  the  same  fault,  it  is  not  desirable  to  mate 
them,  even  though  they  may  be  quite  worthy  in  other  respects.  By 
introducing  unrelated  blood  occasionally  it  is  easier  to  maintain  vigor 
and  fecundity.  Each  breeder  should  have  in  mind  the  characteristics 
which  he  wishes  to  fix  in  his  animals.  It  is  easier  to  fix  and  correlate 
a  limited  number  of  characters  than  several.     The  breeder  of  meat 


1927 J  RABBIT    RAISING  15 

rabbits  should  consider  the  breed  standard  and  endeavor  to  produce 
early  maturing  rabbits  which  will  satisfy  all  of  the  standard's  require- 
ments. The  breeder  of  fur  rabbits  not  only  has  to  consider  the  fur 
quality,  but  has  to  have  some  knowledge  of  color  factors  and  meat 
quality.  He  will  find  that  size  and  certain  colors  or  color  markings 
are  largely  inherited.  Colors  and  color  markings  are  grouped  as 
selfs,  agoutis,  silvers,  and  specific  markings.  Color  marking  within 
these  different  groupings  can  usually  be  treated  as  pure,  although 
some  reversions  may  occur  because  of  previous  crossing.  In  addition 
to  inheritance  of  size  and  color,  attention  should  be  paid  to  inheritance 
of  fur  quality  and  to  a  lesser  extent  to  special  anatomical  character- 
istics. 

The  Sex  of  Rabbits. — The  sex  of  a  rabbit  is  probably  determined 
at  the  time  the  chromosomes  in  the  sex  cells  unite.  As  yet  no  means 
of  definitely  influencing  the  sex  in  one  direction  has  been  found,  in 
spite  of  some  claims  to  the  contrary.  The  two  sexes  will  be  about 
evenly  divided  in  number. 

Number  of  Litters. — A  doe  may  be  expected  to  bear  from  three  to 
five  litters  of  vigorous  young  each  year  and  a  doe  should  remain  a 
good  breeder  for  three  years.  The  object  should  be  better  litters,  not 
more  litters. 

Breeding  should  take  place  only  when  both  of  the  parents  are  in 
good  health.  Rabbits  should  not  be  bred  during  a  molt.  Climatic  con- 
ditions should  also  be  considered  because  heat  and  cold  affect  both  the 
mother  and  the  young.  If  rabbits  are  to  be  exhibited  at  shows,  it  is 
important  to  have  the  youngsters  at  the  maximum  age  for  the  class 
at  the  time  of  the  show.  Does  should  not  be  bred  if  they  show  any 
ill  effects  of  past  breeding.  Most  of  the  shows  take  place  in  late 
summer  on  up  until  the  last  of  winter.  Breeders  can  look  ahead  and 
plan  for  raising  rabbits  of  the  right  age.  The  period  of  gestation  is 
from  thirty  to  thirty-five  days  with  thirty  about  the  average. 

Number  to  a  Litter. — The  rabbit  normally  has  eight  nipples.  Some 
Belgian  Hares  have  only  six.  A  doe  should  not  be  allowed  to  keep 
more  than  from  six  to  eight  young,  or  one  rabbit  for  each  nipple.  It 
is  even  better  to  reduce  the  number  of  young  in  a  litter  to  five  so  that 
the  mother  will  be  able  to  raise  five  vigorous  rabbits  instead  of  seven 
or  eight  weak  rabbits.  Rapid  gains  are  very  essential  in  keeping  down 
expenses  and  for  this  reason  it  is  important  to  regulate  the  number 
in  a  litter  so  that  early  maturity  may  be  secured. 


16  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 


THE    PRACTICE   OF    BREEDING 

A  doe  may  be  bred  almost  any  time  in  the  year  but  usually  a  rest 
is  given  in  the  hot  summer  months.  Take  the  doe  to  the  buck's  hutch, 
never  take  the  buck  to  the  doe's  hutch,  because  she  is  likely  to  fight 
intruders.  If  the  doe  is  in  heat  she  will  take  the  buck  in  a  few  minutes. 
Successful  service  is  indicated  by  the  buck  falling  over  backward  or 
to  one  side.  But  if  the  doe  resents  the  buck  and  shows  that  she  is  not 
in  heat,  remove  and  try  again  every  two  or  three  days  until  service 
is  successful.  A  doe  comes  in  heat  about  once  every  two  to  three  weeks 
and  oestrus  lasts  for  three  or  four  days.  One  service  from  the  buck 
is  better  than  more. 

Failure  of  the  doe  to  conceive  has  been  said  to  be  indicated  by  her 
making  nest  long  before  the  time  for  kindling  has  arrived,  perhaps 
within  a  week  after  breeding.  Stamping  the  hind  feet  and  rubbing 
the  chin  on  hutch  equipment  are  frequently  indications  of  heat  recur- 
ring.   Breed  the  doe  again  if  she  appears  not  to  be  with  young. 

A  mature  buck  may  be  allowed  to  serve  three  does  each  week. 
Young  bucks  should  be  used  only  once  or  twice  a  week  at  first. 

Kindling. — The  pregnant  doe  should  not  be  disturbed  just  before 
kindling  for  fear  that  she  may  scatter  the  young  about  the  hutch  and 
cause  their  death.  See  that  the  prospective  mother  is  well  supplied 
with  clean  fresh  water  and  straw  nesting  material.  Just  before 
kindling  she  will  make  the  nest  and  will  line  it  with  hair  or  fur  pulled 
from  her  belly.    The  young  are  born  naked  and  with  their  eyes  closed. 


HUTCHES  AND   RUNWAYS 

Essentials  of  a  Good  Hutch. — Rabbit  hutches  should  be  convenient, 
sanitary,  suitable  for  the  purpose  for  which  used,  permanent  and 
economical,  and  have  a  reasonably  good  appearance.  Bad  housing 
methods  can  only  end  in  trouble  and  the  breeder  with  poor  equipment 
is  not  in  a  position  to  sell  his  stock  advantageously. 

Sunlight  and  fresh  air  are  essentials  for  good  growth.  Sunlight 
should  reach  the  inside  of  all  hutches,  especially  hutches  where  young 
are  being  developed.  The  violet  rays  of  sunlight  help  prevent  rickets, 
and  sunlight  is  knoAvn  to  be  invigorating  for  all  young  animals.  Sun- 
light is  also  one  of  the  best  disinfectants. 

Pure,  fresh  air  is  very  important.  If  the  rabbits  are  forced  to 
breathe  air  polluted  with  ammonia  fumes,   snuffles  and  respiratory 


1927 


RABBIT    RAISING 


17 


diseases  are  favored.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  rabbits  which  are 
raised  where  there  is  plenty  of  fresh  air  and  sunlight  rarely  are 
affected  with  respiratory  diseases. 

Dryness  within  the  hutch  should  be  combined  with  sunlight  and 
fresh  air.  Protection  from  rain  and  from  leaky  hutches  tierced  above 
will  prevent  disease  and  sickness  that  may  otherwise  appear. 

Excessive  heat  kills  many  rabbits  each  year.  A  cool,  well  aerated 
hutch,  sheltered  somewhat  from  the  hot  sun  by  means  of  shade  trees 
or  lath,  will  prevent  much  of  this  trouble.     Burlap  or  canvas  sus- 


Fig.    7. — The    recommended    3-tier   rabbit    hutch.      Note    how    the    doors    are 
braced  and  how  they  close  over  the  floor. 


pended  from  the  projecting  roof  of  the  open  front  hutch  will  protect 
the  rabbits  in  bad  weather.  Large  rabbitries  sometimes  use  a  rabbit 
house  in  which  to  place  the  hutches,  but  such  protection  should  never 
exclude  the  sunlight  that  is  so  important  for  good  health. 

A  well  arranged  rabbitry  Avill  greatly  reduce  the  labor  necessary 
to  care  for  the  rabbits.  Since  the  cost  of  labor  during  the  first  three 
months  about  equals  the  cost  of  feed  for  a  rabbit,  it  is  easy  to  see 
that  any  appreciable  lessening  of  the  labor  cost  tends  to  make  the 
large  commercial  enterprise  more  economical. 

Hutches  may  be  built  with  a  height  of  two  to  three  tiers,  that  is 
with  two  or  three  compartments  built  one  above  the  other.  (See  figs. 
7  and  8.)     The  height  of  the  tiered  hutches  should  be  regulated  by 


18 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE 


[Cmc.  9 


the  height  of  the  caretaker.  If  the  floor  of  the  bottom  hutch  is  within 
six  or  eight  inches  of  the  ground  tlie  person  of  normal  height  will  have 
no  difficulty  in  reaching  the  top  hutch.  Boys  and  girls  or  women  may 
find  the  three-tier  hutch  too  high.  In  this  case  it  would  be  better  to 
used  a  two-tier  hutch  so  that  the  top  hutch  could  be  taken  care  of 
without  any  difficulty. 

Hutch  Equipment  and  Arrangement. — Many  good  hutches  are 
being  used  in  California  and  success  is  being  secured  with  various 
forms.  However  some  types  of  hutches  have  given  more  or  less 
trouble  in  the  hands  of  beginners.     Most  of  the  standard  types  of 


Fig.  8. — A  2-tier  rabbit  hutch  showing  a  type  of  door  not  to  use  and  a 
separate  nesting  compartment  that  results  in  unnecessary  expense.  The  feeding 
rack  should  not  extend  the  full  depth  of  the  hutch  as  here  shoAvn,  because  of 
the  tendency  of  waste  hay  to  clog  the  toilet. 


hutches  have  been  tested  out  at  the  Branch  of  the  College  of  Agricul- 
ture at  Davis  and  the  one  found  to  give  best  results  is  shown  in  figures 
7  and  9.  It  is  believed  that  this  hutch  will  be  efficient  and  economical 
under  all  ordinary  conditions  found  in  California.  Plans  for  this 
hutch  are  given  in  figure  9. 

Feeding,  watering,  and  cleaning  devices  should  be  so  arranged  as 
to  require  the  least  amount  of  labor.  Usually  a  V-shaped  central 
feeder  for  hay  is  best.  Grain  and  water  are  placed  in  earthenware 
dishes.  Dpor  feeders,  as  a  rule,  are  easily  detached  by  the  rabbits,  or 
permit  wasting  of  feed. 

The  toilet  should  be  placed  at  the  rear  of  the  hutch  away  from  the 
hay  and  the  nest.    It  is  a  mistake  to  use  slatted  floors  or  wire  covered 


1927] 


RABBIT    RAISING 


19 


floors  for  the  purpose  of  cleaning  hutches.  Such  floor  coverings  are 
hard  on  the  rabbits'  feet,  are  usually  drafty,  and  will  not  be  kept 
sanitary.  The  toilet  should  be  separated  from  the  tongue-and-groove 
floor  and  to  the  underside  of  the  floor  should  be  tacked  hardware 


/?oof  nof  shot^n 


Pear    Elevation 


fND     fi  EI/ATI  ON 


Univerjify  of  Cd/ifornia,  College  of  Agriculture 
Poultry  Husbondry  Division,  Dovu,  Cblifi 
THQEE    T/fP  I^ABd/T  HUTCH 

D&signed  by  yV.  e.  Uoc/d  Oro^vn  dy  ^^  Oec,  /9a6 

rig.  9. — Plans  for  a  3-tier,  6-compartment  rabbit  hutch. 

cloth  ("fruit  drying  cloth")  or  heavy  galvanized  wire  netting  with 
a  mesh  not  larger  than  about  one  inch.  Beneath  the  toilet,  place  a 
galvanized  iron  pan  and  have  this  pan  slip  in  from  an  opening  at  the 
rear  of  the  hutch.  One  pan  can  cover  the  space  occupied  by  the  toilets 
in  two  adjoining  compartments. 


20  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

The  hutch  door  should  extend  the  full  length  of  the  hutch  and  the 
outer  end  cleats  of  the  door  should  fit  snugly  over  the  edge  of  flooring 
at  the  bottom.  (See  figs.  7  and  9.)  Such  a  door  is  not  easily  clogged 
with  hay  or  litter.  There  is  no  special  advantage  in  having  a  separate 
door  in  front  of  the  nest.  Odd  shaped  doors  are  costly  and  unneces- 
sary. Rectangular  doors  are  most  easily  constructed  and  can  be  used 
with  the  V-shaped  feeder  if  the  under  space  about  the  feeder  is 
boarded  up  straight  and  solid.  Each  door  should  be  equipped  with 
good  hinges  and  easily  closing  cheap  catches.  All  doors  should  be 
covered  with  inch-mesh,  galvanized  wire  netting  rather  than  welded 
wire  or  other  material.  The  wire  netting  is  cheap,  available  every- 
where, durable,  and  cannot  be  spread  or  gnawed  by  the  rabbits.  It 
will  prevent  rabbits  from  gnawing  the  wood  if  placed  on  the  inside 
of  the  doors.  The  small  mesh  will  prevent  even  the  smallest  rabbits 
from  escaping. 

Does  should  have  a  nest  box  placed  in  the  end  of  the  hutch  opposite 
the  central  feeder.  A  good  size  for  the  nest  is  12  inches  wide,  12  inches 
high  and  24  inches  long.  The  nest  may  be  easily  constructed  out  of 
a  dry-goods  box  by  knocking  off  the  top  and  then  using  the  top  for 
a  lid.  This  top  should  be  cleated  so  that  it  can  be  put  on  and  taken 
off  at  will.  Place  a  low  partition  in  the  nest  so  that  the  nest  material 
will  be  held  in  the  back  half.  This  partition  will  also  serve  to  keep  the 
young  in  the  nest  until  they  are  old  enough  to  come  out.  Have  the 
entrance  to  the  nest  in  the  front  half.  Then  if  the  doe  enters  the  nest 
box  quickly  she  will  not  be  so  likely  to  injure  the  young  rabbits.  The 
top  of  the  hutch  nest  should  be  flat  so  that  the  mother  can  use  it  as  a 
place  of  refuge  at  weaning  time. 

Runways  or  developing  pens  will  be  needed  for  growing  rabbits. 
One  of  these  knock-down  out-door  rabbit  runs  is  shown  in  the  plans 
illustrated  in  figures  10  and  11.  Such  runways  may  be  5  ft.  by  6  ft. 
and  should  be  approximately  2V2  ft.  high.  They  can  be  moved  about 
over  green  feed  growing  in  the  open.  The  wire  netting  used  for  the 
floor  enables  the  rabbits  to  eat  the  feed  and  at  the  same  time  prevents 
them  from  digging  out.  Sunlight  is  stimulating  in  its  effect  on  the 
young  rabbits.  If  the  weather  is  very  hot,  however,  some  protection 
from  the  sun  will  be  needed. 

A  rabbit  house  should  be  large  enough  to  hold  all  of  the  hutches 
and  permit  storage  of  feed,  such  as  alfalfa  hay  and  rolled  barley. 
The  most  progressive  rabbit  raisers  endeavor  to  buy  feed  in  ton  or 
half-ton  lots  as  a  minimum,  and  this  necessitates  adequate  storage 
facilities.  If  the  feed  is  stored  in  a  separate  compartment  at  the  end 
of  the  rabbit  house,  be  sure  to  have  it  proof  against  rats  and  mice. 


1927] 


RABBIT    RAISING 


21 


S/de   E'lei^aflon 


J:"A3i'  bo/f  yv/fh  yv/ng  nut 


Univen^ity  cf  Cb/ifomb 

College  oT  /^r/culture 

Cbm,  (2]lfl\ 

fbultry  Hustxjfidfy  Dim  ion 

QABdir  R£/iR/f)/6  fGi 

Oesigne<^  bu  n.^.L/oud 
Drawn  h^  LSJ.  Oec: /9£6 


Corner  Detai/ 

Fig.  10. — Plans  for  a  rearing  pen  with  two  compartments 


22 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE 


[CiRC.  9 


The  floor  of  the  rabbit  house  should  be  made  of  concrete  and  con- 
nected with  drains  so  that  when  the  floor  is  hosed  out  weekly  the  water 
will  be  carried  away  quickly.  Hutches  should  be  placed  crosswise  of 
the  rabbit  house  which  faces  the  south  so  that  sunlight  will  enter  each 
hutch  part  of  the  day.  Hutches  can  be  placed  lengthwise  of  this 
rabbit  house  but  in  this  case  the  hutches  should  be  out  from  the  rear 
wall  to  permit  removal  of  the  toilet  pans.  Some  sunshine  will  be 
needed  in  any  case.    Glass  is  seldom  used  in  rabbit  houses  because  of 


Fig.  11. — A  2-compartment  rearing  pen. 


our  mild  climate.  Ordinary  glass  also  excludes  the  ultra-violet  rays 
of  the  sun  (see  leg  weakness). 

Hutch  cost  can  be  estimated  in  a  general  way  only,  because  lumber 
and  labor  costs  vary  widely  in  the  different  parts  of  the  state.  Some 
of  the  modern  4  to  6-compartment  hutches  have  cost  from  $16.00  to 
$20.00  for  all  materials  and  labor.  The  housing  charge  for  rabbits 
should  be  somewhat  less  than  for  poultry.  A  cost  of  $3.00  to  $4.00  a 
compartment  may  be  expected. 

The  following  list  of  building  materials  can  be  used  for  the  hutch 
which  we  have  found  satisfactory.  Any  lumber  yard  can  supply  an 
estimate  of  the  cost  of  the  materials  here  listed. 


1927] 


RABBIT    RAISING 


23 


Specifications  and  List  of  Material  for  a  3-Tier  Eabbit  Hutch 

Pieces  Size  Kind  of  lumber*  Place 

27      I"x4"x8'         T&G  Douglas  fir   (Oregon     Floors.     9  pieces  for  each  floor. 

pine)  .    ■ 

15      I"x4"x7'         T&G  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  Roof.     Cut   to   30  pieces    l"x4"x 

pine)  3'6". 

18      I"x4"x6'         T&G  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  Ends.     9  pieces  for  each  end. 

pine) 


Roof  cleats  or  strips. 

Backs  each  floor.     Cut  to  2  pieces 

l"xlO"  8'2^ 
Backs  each  floor.     Cut  to  1  piece 

I"xl0"x8'2^ 
Fronts  of  feed  racks.     Cut  to  2 

pieces  I"xl0"x5'. 
Back  uprights.     Cut  to  2  pieces 

I"x3''x5'6^ 
Front  uprights.     Cut  to  2  pieces 

I"x3"x5'83^". 
Front  and  back  top  rails.     Cut  to 

2  pieces  I"x3"x8'2". 
Bottom  slats  for  toilet  pans.     Cut 

to  6  pieces  I"x3"x2'. 
Back  partitions.     Cut  to  3  pieces 

I"xl2"xl7^ 
Front    of   partitions    under   feed 

racks.     Cut  to  3  pieces  l"x5"x 

Floor   joists.     Cut   to    12   pieces 

I"x2"x2'6". 
Strips  for  top  of  feed  racks.     Cut 

to  6  pieces  l"x2"xl'10". 
Doors.       For    top    and    bottom 

rails  cut  12  pieces  l"x2"x2'9K" 

and  6  pieces  1  "x2"x3',  for  braces. 
Doors.     For  end  rails  to  be  cut 

into  12  pieces  I"x2"xl7". 

Doors,  two  hinges  for  each  door. 
Doors,  one  for  each  door. 
Hutch  backs.     Cut  into  3  pieces 

l'x8'. 
Doors    and    feed    racks.     Cut    6 
pieces  for  the  doors,  each  18"x 
33".     Cut  3  pieces  for  the  feed 
racks,  each  18"x20". 
20"      l"mesh24"  wide  hardware  or  fruit  dry-      Toilets.     Cut  into  3  pieces,  each 

ing  cloth  8"x20". 

3  I3^"x8"xl9"  galvanized  droppings  trays      One  for  each  toilet  opening. 

3  lb.     8d  box  nails,  cement  coated. 


2  I"x4"x8'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 
1  I"xl0"xl8'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 

1  I"xl0"xl0'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 

1  I"xl0"xl0'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 

1  I"x3"xl2'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 

1  I"x3"xl2'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 

1  I"x3"xl8'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 

1  I"x3"xl2'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 

1  I"xl2"x6'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 

1  I"x5"x6'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 

3  I"x2"xl0'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 
1  I"x2"xl2"  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 
3  I"x2"xl8'  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 


1       I"x2"x20'       Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine 

Hardware 

6  pair  2"  tight  pin  butt  or  3"  strap  hinges 

6  2"  turn  buttons 

24'       1"  mesh  12"  wide  poultry  netting,  ga 

vanized  after  weaving 
213^'   1"  mesh  18"  wide  poultry  netting,  ga 

vanized  after  weaving 


*  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine)  has  been  mentioned  in  the  list  of  materials  but  other  available  lumber 
of  suitable  grade  may  be  substituted. 


24 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE 


[CiRC.  9 


Materials  and  Specifications  for  a  2 -Compartment  Eabbit  Bearing  Pen 


Pieces 
4 


Size 
I"x4"xl2' 

I"x4"xl0' 


Kind  of  lumber* 

Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine) 
or  redwood 


Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine) 
or  redwood 


I"x3"xl0' 


Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine) 
or  redwood 


2      2"x2"xl0'       Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine) 


1       I"xl2"x4' 


Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine) 
or  redwood 


Hardware 

2  lb.     8d  box  nails,  cement  coated. 

2  pair  Strap  hinges 


12 


39' 


5' 


12' 


10' 


3^^"x3"    wing    machine    bolts     (square 

heads) 
1"    mesh    2'    wide    hexagonal    poultry 

netting,  galvanized  after  weaving 


\]4,"  mesh  5'  wide  hexagonal  poultry 
netting 

13/^"  mesh  5'  wide  hexagonal  poultry 

netting 
2"    mesh    5'    wide    hexagonal    poultry       For  top 

netting 


Place 

Top  and  bottom  side  rails.  Two 
for  top  rails  and  two  for  bottom 
rails. 

Cut  4  pieces  I"x4"x23^'  for  end 
rails.  2  pieces  I"x4"x23^'  for 
center  rails  at  sides.  4  pieces 
r'x4"x5'  for  top  and  bottom 
rails  across  ends.  2  pieces  l"x 
4"x4'9"  for  top  and  bottom  rails 
of  partition.  1  piece  r'x4"x5' 
for  center  cross  piece  at  top. 

Cut  2  pieces  I"x3"x4'7",  one  for 
each  feeder  top  rail.  4  pieces 
I''x3"x5',*2  cross  rails  for  each 
door.  4  pieces  I"x3"x4'9",  2 
side  rails  for  each  door. 

Cut  4  pieces  2"x2"x23^',  end  rails, 
one  for  each  corner.  4  pieces 
2"x2"xl2",  fillers  for  ends  of 
feeders.  2  pieces  2"x2"x2i4'  for 
end  rails  of  partition. 

Cut  into  2  pieces  r'xl2"x2'  and 
then  saw  diagonally  to  make  4 
ends  of  feeders. 


One  pair  for  each  door. 

Two  for  each  corner  support  and 

two  for  each  side  at  center. 
Cut  2  pieces  5'x2',  one  for  each 

end.     2   pieces    12'x2',    one   for 

each  side.     1  piece  5'x2'  for  the 

partition. 
Cut  2  pieces  5'x23^',  one  for  each 

feeder. 
For  bottom. 


*  Douglas  fir  (Oregon  pine)  has  been  mentioned  in  the  list  of  materials  but  other  available  lumber 
of  suitable  grade  may  be  substituted. 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  '  25 


FEEDS   AND    FEEDING 

PRINCIPLES  INVOLVED 

Rabbits  require  food  for  growth,  maintenance,  and  reproduction. 
Feeds  which,  when  combined  satisfy  these  body  requirements  make 
up  a  balanced  ration.  For  example,  milk  may  be  considered  a  balanced 
ration  for  the  young  when  first  born.  As  the  young  grow  older  their 
bodies  will  require  somewhat  different  food  in  order  to  carry  on  the 
body  functions.  A  well  balanced  diet  should  contain  suitable  amounts 
of  protein,  carbohydrates  and  fat,  mineral  matter,  roughage  or  bulk, 
vitamins,  and  in  addition  be  palatable  and  have  variety. 

Protein  is  the  nitrogenous  or  muscle-building  part  of  the  feed. 
Carbohydrates,  supplied  mostly  by  starches  and  sugars,  give  heat  and 
energy.  Fat  serves  the  same  purpose  as  the  carbohydrates,  but  is 
21/4  times  as  effective.  The  ratio  that  exists  between  the  digestible 
protein  on  one  hand  and  the  digestible  carbohydrates  and  fat  on  the 
other  is  spoken  of  as  the  nutritive  ratio.  Some  of  the  best  rations  now 
being  used  for  growing  rabbits  have  a  nutritive  ratio  of  approximately 
1  part  digestible  protein  to  5.2  parts  digestible  carbohydrates  and  fat, 
often  expressed  as  1 :5.2.  Very  young  rabbits  and  nursing  or  bred 
does  will  be  able  to  make  use  of  more  protein,  possibly  as  much  as 
1 :4.  The  older  rabbits  being  fattened  can  use  a  little  more  carbo- 
hydrates and  fat,  or  approximately  1 :6.  However  rabbits  from  two 
to  three  months  old  make  the  best  gains  when  the  ration  does  not 
contain  too  large  a  per  cent  of  carbohydrates  and  fat.  It  is  the 
protein  that  builds  muscle  and  is  of  greatest  importance  to  the  grow- 
ing animal. 

Mineral  matter,  such  as  lime,  phosphorus,  sulphur,  iron,  and  salt, 
is  needed  in  small  quantities.  The  bones  consist  largely  of  calcium 
and  phosphorus  compounds.  The  blood  is  rich  in  iron.  Sulfur  and 
phosphorus  are  a  part  of  some  proteins  in  the  body.  Connective  tissue 
also  contains  some  mineral  matter.  Salt  (sodium  chlorid)  is  essential 
in  the  body  of  the  rabbit,  particularly  in  the  blood,  and  may  be  sup- 
plied in  the  form  of  salt  spools  to  satisfy  the  normal  requirements  of 
the  blood  and  body  tissues.  An  allowance  of  i/4  pound  of  salt  to 
100  pounds  of  feed  should  be  sufficient.  Some  forms  of  mineral 
matter  are  being  added  to  rabbit  mashes. 

The  ration  should  contain  liberal  amounts  of  food  factors  called 
vitamins.  There  are  several  kinds  of  vitamins,  some  of  which  are 
concerned  mostly  with  growth,  others  with  the  normal  functioning  of 


26  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [ClRC.  9 

the  body,  and  still  others  with  reproduction.  If  the  ration  contains 
plenty  of  green  feed,  alfalfa  hay,  a  variety  of  grain  and  mill  products, 
and  milk  or  milk  products,  the  rabbits  will  not  suffer  for  the  want  of 
vitamins.  Along  with  the  vitamins  plenty  of  sunshine  should  be 
provided  because  sunshine  helps  prevent  rickets. 

Wild  rabbits  live  largely  on  hulky  food  or  roughage  so  the  feeder 
should  use  plenty  of  bulky  food  in  the  ration  to  prevent  indigestion. 
A  fine  grade  of  alfalfa  hay  is  best  suited  for  roughage.  Since  bulky 
food  contains  considerable  indigestible  crude  fiber,  some  concentrated 
material  should  be  added  to  the  ration  to  provide  sufficient  nourish- 
ment and  to  help  balance  the  ration.  Rolled  barley  and  rolled  oats 
are  widely  used  for  this  purpose.  Certain  mill  products,  such  as  the 
mashes  used  for  dairy  cattle,  also  serve  a  similar  purpose.  A  limited 
amount  of  succulent  feed  supplies  roughage  and  adds  variety  and 
palatahility  to  the  ration. 

Rabbits  should  be  accustomed  to  the  feeds  used.  A  sudden  change, 
even  when  an  improvement  is  involved,  may  result  in  temporary 
digestive  disturbances;  therefore  any  change  should  be  made  grad- 
ually. Wild  rabbits  eat  green  food,  even  green  food  with  dew  on  it, 
with  impunity,  but  domestic  rabbits  would  suffer  seriously  if  they 
were  fed  such  food  when  they  were  not  accustomed  to  it  in  their 
regular  diet.  Green  feed,  if  given  in  moderation,  is  an  excellent  sub- 
stitute for  or  supplement  to  the  dry  roughage.  A  small  amount  of 
greens  given  regularly,  either  daily  or  on  certain  days  in  the  week, 
will  aid  materially  in  keeping  the  stock  in  good,  healthy  condition. 
Young  rabbits  are  easily  injured  by  wrong  methods  of  feeding  greens. 
Rabbits  often  refuse  to  eat  new  kinds  of  feed  and  in  such  cases  mixing 
some  of  the  new  food  with  other  feed  to  which  the  rabbits  have  become 
accustomed  will  usually  overcome  the  difficulty. 


FEEDING  PRACTICES 

Amount  to  Feed. — If  rabbits  are  supplied  with  a  good  grade  of 
alfalfa  hay  and  rolled  barley,  or  the  equivalent  in  a  good  rabbit  mash, 
one  or  two  feedings  each  day  will  be  quite  sufficient.  Rabbits  eat  more 
at  night  than  in  the  day  time;  so  it  is  a  good  plan  to  feed  in  the 
evening  or  make  the  evening  meal  the  largest  meal.  One  method  is  to 
feed  alfalfa  hay  in  the  morning  and  hay  and  grain  at  night.  Nursing 
does  and  rabbits  being  fitted  for  the  show  may  do  better  with  two 
feedings  of  grain  each  day,  but  some  tests  indicate  that  the  ordinary 
meat  rabbit  will  not  justify  the  use   of  a  full  feeding  of  rolled 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  27 

barley  twice  a  day.  Two  ounces  of  rolled  barley  daily  or  less  if  other 
grain  is  used  will  be  a  normal  amount.  One  feeding  of  grain  and 
one  or  two  feedings  of  fine  alfalfa  hay  each  day  should  give  very  satis- 
factory results  for  growing  meat  stock.  If  different  kinds  of  grain 
are  fed,  such  as  a  dairy  mash  and  rolled  barley,  it  may  be  desirable 
to  feed  the  mash  in  the  morning  and  the  grain  at  night.  This  has 
been  the  practice  with  some  rabbit  raisers  and  has  given  very  good 
results.  Some  producers  do  not  use  any  whole  grain  for  young  meat 
rabbits  but  substitute  a  suitable  rabbit  mash.  However  the  cost  of 
such  feeds  may  not  always  justify  their  use  as  compared  with  the 
whole  grains  such  as  rolled  barley  and  rolled  oats.  There  has  been  a 
recent  tendency  to  use  whole  ground  grains  in  place  of  some  of  the 
mill  products  on  the  ground  that  the  whole  grains  contain  more  of  the 
essential  food  factors  and  are  cheaper  on  the  basis  of  food  value 
contained.  Each  grower  should  consider  local  conditions  when  select- 
ing the  proper  ration.     Whole  barley  may  replace  rolled  barley. 

Green  feed,  such  as  carrots,  green  alfalfa,  wild  mallow,  filaree,  beet 
leaves,  wild  oats,  and  green  barley  add  to  the  value  and  palatability 
of  the  daily  ration.  Certain  kinds  of  greens  like  kale  and  cabbage 
can  be  used  in  limited  quantities  without  fear  of  bad  results  but  these 
plants  belonging  to  the  mustard  family  give  the  urine  a  very  strong 
odor  which  tends  to  make  their  use  objectionable,  especially  when  the 
rabbits  are  near  dwellings. 

Babbits  should  be  made  to  clean  up  their  feed  before  more  is  given, 
providing  the  feed  is  of  good  quality.  Much  of  the  waste  of  alfalfa 
is  due  to  overfeeding,  but  sometimes  it  is  due  to  poor  quality  of  the 
hay.  Many  rabbit  raisers  are  now  chopping  the  hay  to  avoid  unneces- 
sary waste. 

Occasionally  a  substitute  for  greens  may  be  desired.  Recent  in- 
vestigations tend  to  show  that  the  alfalfa  leaf  and  blossom  meal  on  the 
market  is  a  substitute  for  green  feed  for  poultry  and  this  meal,  if 
not  too  dusty,  should  give  good  results  for  rabbits.  It  has  been  found 
that  the  nursing  doe  needs  about  three  times  the  normal  amount  of 
vitamin  B  to  have  a  good  milk  flow  for  the  young.  Greens,  or  the 
meal  just  mentioned,  will  be  rich  in  this  vitamin  under  average  Cali- 
fornia conditions,  and  for  this  reason  may  be  fed  rather  liberally  to 
the  nursing  mother  when  she  has  become  accustomed  to  them. 

Several  rules  have  been  given  for  determining  the  amount  of  feed 
to  give  the  rabbits.  A  general  rule  has  been  to  use  from  1%  to  2 
ounces  of  feed  for  each  pound  of  weight  as  the  daily  requirement, 
when  the  ration  consisted  of  hay,  grain,  and  roots.  Such  an  allowance 
is  very  liberal  and  will  include  the  waste  of  some  hay.     In  view  of 


28  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

standard  practice  it  would  seem  that  an  allowance  of  from  1  to  l^/^ 
ounces  of  food  for  each  pound  live  weight  would  be  ample  where  the 
ration  consisted  largely  of  alfalfa  hay  and  rolled  barley.  A  resting 
doe  will  require  less  feed  than  a  bred  doe  or  a  nursing  doe,  so  some 
good  judgment  should  be  exercised  in  regulating  the  amount  of  feed. 
By  w^atching  the  hay  in  the  rack  and  the  grain  in  the  feeding  dish 
the  owner  will  know  how  the  rabbits  are  cleaning  up  the  feed. 

Some  rabbit  raisers  will  want  to  figure  on  the  proportion  of  hay 
to  grain  and  mill  products.  It  is  now  a  common  practice  to  allow 
nearly  11/2  pounds  of  alfalfa  hay  for  each  pound  of  grain.  In  some 
cases  the  allowance  will  be  for  more  grain,  as  much  as  1  pound  of 
grain  for  1.2  pounds  of  hay.  These  estimates  are  based  on  large 
tonnages  of  feed  and  not  on  the  daily  food  used  for  special  cases. 

Feeding  Nursing  Does. — Special  attention  should  be  given  to  nurs- 
ing does.  Liberal  feeding  has  already  been  mentioned.  After  kindling 
the  doe  will  be  quite  thirsty  and  should  be  given  plenty  of  water. 
The  milk  flow  does  not  start  for  several  hours  after  kindling,  and 
consequently  the  mother  will  not  require  additional  feed  at  this  time. 
During  the  first  two  weeks  after  kindling  the  doe  will  do  well  on  a 
normal  ration  consisting  of  approximately  5  ounces  of  hay  and  4 
ounces  of  concentrates  for  a  ten  pound  rabbit.  It  will  probably  be 
best  to  use  more  grain  after  the  first  day  or  two,  using  up  to  8  ounces 
of  grain.  As  the  young  grow  older  and  start  to  eat,  as  much  as  18 
ounces  of  grain  may  be  needed  for  the  doe  and  litter.  The  hay 
eaten  will  also  be  greater  in  amount.  Figure  on  supplying  from  two 
to  three  times  the  normal  amount  of  feed  for  the  doe  with  young  over 
two  weeks  old. 

The  use  of  milk  at  weaning  time  has  been  advocated  to  tide  over 
this  trying  period  until  the  young  are  fully  accustomed  to  the  adult 
ration.  Sometimes  the  milk  of  the  nursing  doe  fails,  and  in  such  cases 
bread  and  milk  can  be  fed  to  the  young  with  good  results.  If  the 
young  rabbits  refuse  to  eat  this  food,  try  moistening  their  lips  with 
a  little  milk.  As  soon  as  the  young  get  a  taste  of  the  milk,  they  will 
probably  accept  the  bread  and  milk  without  further  difficulty.  Sorae 
of  the  dried  milk  on  the  market  may  be  added  to  the  mash  when  the 
price  is  reasonable. 

Water. — Clean  fresh  water  is  one  of  the  essentials  in  feeding 
rabbits.  Dishes  should  be  rinsed  out  and  a  fresh  supply  of  water 
given  night  and  morning.  Water  dishes  should  be  scalded  out  at 
least  once  each  week  in  order  to  prevent  the  spread  of  disease  by 
means  of  infected  drinking  water.  Regular  cleaning  wdll  also  remove 
any  organic  matter  that  may  accumulate  in  the  water  dishes. 


^^27]  RABBIT    RAISING  29 

Cost  of  Feed. — There  is  a  wide  range  in  the  prices  which  rabbit 
producers  pay  for  suitable  feed.  Some  producers  fail  to  make  a  good 
profit  simply  because  feed  is  not  bought  in  sufficient  quantities  or  at 
the  right  time  of  year  to  secure  the  advantage  of  a  low  price.  Feed 
should  be  bought  in  quantity  soon  after  harvest  when  prices  are 
lowest,  but  any  feed  bought  in  this  way  should  be  stored  where  rodents 
will  not  trouble,  and  where  the  quality  will  not  be  injured.  Poor 
grades  of  hay  or  smutty  grain  are  to  be  avoided.  A  cost  of  %  cent 
a  day  for  the  first  two  or  three  months  should  be  a  fair  average  for 
the  feed  bill  where  most  of  the  feed  is  bought.  Feed  for  the  year 
amounts  to  from  $3.50  to  $3.75  for  an  adult  rabbit  in  some  of  our 
commercial  rabbitries.  This  applies  to  both  meat  and  fur  breeds, 
excepting  very  heavy  rabbits,  such  as  the  Giants. 


THE  CARE  AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  RABBITS 

Handling. — Rabbits  should  be  handled  as  little  as  possible.  The 
rabbit  which  is  being  fitted  for  a  show  should  be  handled  enough,  to 
make  it  gentle  in  the  hands  of  the  judge  or  on  the  judging  table. 
Vicious  rabbits  are  inexcusable  and  should  never  be  shown.  One  of 
the  first  lessons  in  keeping  rabbits  is  to  learn  how  to  carry  a  rabbit. 
Never  pick  a  rabbit  up  by  the  ears  or  the  feet.  Always  take  hold  of 
the  loose  skin  over  the  shoulders  with  one  hand  and  then  place  the 
other  hand  beneath  the  rump  so  that  most  of  the  weight  of  the  rabbit 
will  be  supported  from  beneath.  (See  fig.  12.)  If  the  feet  are 
turned  aw^ay  from  the  person  there  will  be  less  likelihood  of  receiving 
scratches  in  case  the  rabbit  struggles.  When  a  rabbit  starts  to 
struggle  while  it  is  being  carried,  simply  rest  it  on  the  ground  or  on 
a  table  until  the  struggles  cease. 

General  care  of  the  Rahh it ry .^-Hutches  can  be  kept  sanitary  by 
cleaning  them  daily  and  by  occasionally  hosing  them  out  and  disin- 
fecting. If  the  manure  pans  are  cleaned  out  each  day  and  the  floor 
of  the  hutch  scraped  to  remove  any  droppings  that  may  be  present, 
little  trouble  need  be  expected.  The  back  of  the  hutch  and  the  floor 
about  the  toilet  should  be  disinfected  occasionally  to  help  prevent 
any  spread  of  disease  from  this  source.  Any  of  the  good  disinfectants, 
such  as  the  coal  tar  sheep  dips,  "compound  solution  of  cresol"  con- 
taining 50  per  cent  cresylic  acid,  scalding  water  and  soap,  or  scalding 
water  and  soda,  may  be  used  for  the  purpose,  but  do  not  use  any 
material  which  will  be  likely  to  soil  the  fur  of  the  rabbit.     A  straw 


30  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

litter  is  sometimes  used  to  keep  the  hutch  clean,  but  this  practice  is 
seldom  necessary  in  our  climate.  A  straw  litter  is  sometimes  used  in 
hutches  for  Giants  to  prevent  ''sore  hocks." 

Rabbits  are  weaned  when  from  six  to  nine  weeks  old.  Some  young- 
sters for  exhibition  are  left  with  the  mother  up  to  ten  weeks.  Certain 
difficulties  may  be  experienced  at  weaning  time,  such  as  diarrhea,  pot 
belly,  and  slobbers.  These  troubles  will  be  discussed  a  little  later  but 
most  of  them  are  the  result  of  too  sudden  changes  in  the  feeding 


Fig.  12. — A  rabbit  held  properly  is  comfortable. 

methods.  The  excessive  use  of  greens  for  young  rabbits,  especially 
greens  wet  with  dew,  has  resulted  in  much  trouble.  The  failure  of 
the  mother's  milk  flow  may  also  be  associated  with  difficulties  near 
the  weaning  time.  Some  blame  has  been  placed  on  the  first  molt  which 
may  start  when  the  young  are  about  six  week:,  old  but  under  normal 
conditions  this  first  molt  is  so  imperceptible  that  it  will  hardly  be 
noticed  and  no  difficultly  on  its  account  need  be  expected. 

The  males  or  bucks  should  be  separated  from  the  females  or  does 
when  the  rabbits  are  from  two  to  three  months  old.  At  this  time  the 
genital  organs  of  the  buck  are  developed  sufficiently  to  permit  an 
accurate  identification  of  the  sex.     The  sexual  aperture  just  in  front 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  31 

of  the  anal  opening  appears  as  a  slit  in  does;  in  bucks  it  is  a  round 
opening  from  which  the  male  sexual  organ  will  protrude  under 
pressure. 

Young  does  may  be  removed  from  the  litter  pens  when  about 
thirteen  weeks  old  and  placed  three  or  four  together  in  rearing  pens 
shown  in  figure  11.  Bucks  sometimes  start  fighting  when  about  four 
months  old  and  in  this  case  it  is  well  to  separate  them  to  stop  further 
trouble.  Fighting  should  be  stopped  whether  it  is  in  the  same  hutch 
or  between  rabbits  in  different  hutches. 

Marking  Rahhits. — Valuable  rabbits  are  usually  marked  on  the 
inside  of  one  ear  with  a  tattoo  needle.  The  number  or  letter  made 
in  the  ear  is  entered  on  the  registry  and* pedigree  blank.  For  tempo- 
rary marks,  during  exhibitions,  simply  mark  the  ear  inside  with  a 
moistened  indelible  pencil. 

Castration. — Growth  does  not  differ  materially  between  males  and 
females  until  after  the  market  age,  consequently  castration  has  no 
advantage  for  ordinary  meat  stock.  If  fur  rabbits  are  to  be  kept  for 
six  months  or  longer  there  may  be  a  slight  advantage  in  castration 
providing  the  market  wants  a  large  rabbit. 

Care  in  Hot  Weather. — During  severe  hot  spells  the  rabbits  should 
be  protected  from  the  heat  by  hanging  wet  sacks  on  the  door  of  the 
hutches  and  by  sprinkling  the  floor  or  ground  about  the  hutch  to  cool 
the  atmosphere.  Hutch  floors  should  not  be  wet.  A  spaced  lath 
shelter  placed  above  the  hutches  helps  keep  off  the  sun.  The  caretaker 
should  provide  plenty  of  fresh  water  and  see  that  the  hutch  is  well 
ventilated.  Fattening  foods  should  be  reduced  to  a  minimum  during 
the  hot  summer  months.  Try  to  avoid  having  litters  arrive  during 
hot  weather. 

Records. — All  rabbit  producers  should  keep  records  of  the  litters, 
breeding  rabbits,  and  receipts  and  expenses.  An  annual  inventory  of 
all  equipment  and  stock  should  be  made.  Very  few  rabbit  raisers 
really  know  w^hether  they  are  making  a  profit  or  not.  The  best  answer 
to  questions  on  profit  and  loss  is  a  well-kept  record  book.  If  improve- 
ments are  to  be  made,  we  must  first  know  wherein  we  are  inefficient 
and  we  cannot  know  this  without  keeping  records. 

Official  pedigree  blanks  and  hutch  record  cards  can  be  secured 
from  most  rabbit  supply  houses.  Pedigree  blanks  come  in  pads  and 
have  room  for  recording  the  ancestry  of  a  rabbit  back  to  the  great- 
grandsires  and  great-granddams.  In  addition  to  this  information  the 
blank  contains  spaces  for  recording  the  date  of  sale,  the  name  of  the 
person  to  whom  the  rabbit  is  sold,  name  of  the  breeder,  registry  num- 


32  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

ber  of  each  rabbit  mentioned,  also  the  color.  The  weight  of  the  rabbit, 
its  name,  weight  of  sire,  weight  of  dam,  disqualifications  if  any,  date 
bred,  animal  to  which  bred,  and  number  of  the  pedigree  blank  are 
important  items  on  the  pedigree.  The  pedigree  is  signed  by  the 
breeder  and  his  address  should  be  given.  A  duplicate  of  the  pedigree 
should  be  kept  when  a  sale  is  made. 

Hutch  records  are  essential  in  a  well  kept  rabbitry.  Duplicates 
should  be  kept  so  that  in  case  one  record  is  destroyed  another  will  be 
available  to  supply  the  desired  information.  Place  the  hutch  record 
on  the  door  so  that  it  will  not  be  eaten  by  the  rabbits.  A  hutch  record, 
such  as  shown  in  form  A,  should  record  the  time  of  breeding,  time 
of  kindling,  number  in  the  litter,  deaths,  and  any  other  information 
called  for. 

Simple  debit  and  credit  ledgers  are  available  in  any  book  store. 
When  feed  is  bought  and  rabbits  or  pelts  sold,  enter  this  on  the  ledger. 
Take  an  inventory  of  stock  and  equipment  during  any  of  the  slack 
months  of  the  year.  The  inventory  should  show  the  value  of  perma- 
nent improvements  and  fixtures,  real  estate  involved,  equipment,  live- 
stock, and  products  on  hand.  The  ledger  should  show  the  pounds  of 
meat  sold  and  the  price,  the  number  and  quality  of  furs  sold  and  the 
price,  stock  sold  as  breeders  and  the  price,  and  bills  receivable.  The 
debit  side  of  the  ledger  should  give  the  amount  and  cost  of  feed  used, 
rabbits  bought,  cost  of  improvements,  bills  payable,  and  other  items 
of  expense.  When  anything  is  received,  enter  this  on  the  debit  side ; 
when  anything  is  released,  enter  this  on  the  credit  side. 

Only  by  keeping  books  will  rabbit  breeders  be  able  to  advance 
intelligently  and  have  legislators  make  laws  favorable  to  the  industry. 
Transportation  costs,  tariffs,  and  scientific  investigation  can  only  be 
influenced  to  the  rabbit-breeder's  advantage  by  keeping  books  which 
will  conclusively  show  that  the  business  transactions  are  being  ably 
recorded. 

Cooperative  Buying  of  Supplies. — One  of  the  important  problems 
in  managing  the  rabbitry  is  to  buy  feed  and  other  supplies  at  a 
reasonably  low  cost.  Frequently  rabbit  raisers  living  near  cities  are 
in  a  poor  position  to  buy  well,  and  a  movement  has  been  started  in 
some  sections  of  this  state  to  cooperate  in  the  buying  of  alfalfa  hay 
and  perhaps  other  supplies.  Such  a  plan  is  entirely  feasible  providing 
the  organization  is  well  managed,  but  there  has  been  a  tendency  for 
members  to  bolt  such  an  organization  whenever  prices  were  not 
entirely  satisfactory,  and  it  is  to  be  expected  that  some  producers 
may  be  in  such  a  favorable  position  that  they  can  buy  well  outside  of 


1927] 


RABBIT    RAISING 


33 


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34  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

an  organization.  A  rabbit  raiser  must  be  thoroughly  imbued  with 
the  spirit  of  cooperation  and  be  capable  of  working  with  other  rabbit 
breeders  before  cooperative  buying  is  to  be  recommended. 

The  Exhibition  of  Rahhits. — This  publication  is  devoted  mostly  to 
the  production  of  utility  rabbits;  however,  some  rabbit  raisers  may 
want  to  combine  utility  with  fancy  stock,  and  in  this  case  some 
knowledge  of  the  care  and  management  of  fancy  rabbits  will  be  needed. 
There  are  special  publications  on  the  subject  of  shows  and  the  exhibi- 
tion of  rabbits  so  that  details  can  be  had.  A  good  utility  rabbit  fit  for 
meat  and  high  quality  fur  may  also  be  a  good  fancy  rabbit.  Although 
there  may  be  some  divergence  between  the  utility  and  fancy  standards, 
yet  in  a  general  way  there  is  a  very  close  agreement.  Our  best  pure- 
bred rabbits  can  be  made  to  adhere  very  closely  to  the  fancy  standard 
and  at  the  same  time  meet  all  normal  requirements  for  meat  or  fur. 
Rabbits  which  are  capable  of  meeting  the  demand  for  meat  or  fur 
only  are  excluded  from  sale  as  fancy  breeders  or  from  receiving  prizes 
and  the  publicity  which  prizes  bring  in  exhibitions.  Many  rabbit 
raisers  will  prefer  to  start  with  the  very  best  breeders  possible,  rabbits 
which  are  eligible  for  registry  and  meet  the  standards  for  either 
utility  or  fancy.  In  the  final  analysis  there  is  some  ground  for  select- 
ing the  pedigreed  rabbit  even  for  utility  purposes,  because  it  takes 
several  generations  of  breeding  to  meet  the  normal  standard  and  the 
offspring  of  such  rabbits  is  usually  very  uniform  in  characteristics, 
such  as  weight,  time  of  maturity,  color  of  fur  and  similar  factors  in 
which  the  utility  rabbit  breeder  is  vitally  interested. 

Fancy  rabbits  will  need  about  the  same  care  as  ordinary  utility 
rabbits.  There  will  be  the  additional  problem  of  securing  maximum 
size  for  the  age,  and  approaching  the  ideal  set  forth  in  the  standard 
as  nearly  as  possible.  Little  disqualifications  which  in  no  way  inter- 
fere with  the  sale  of  the  animal  for  utility  purposes  must  be  over- 
come for  the  show.  A  rabbit  which  is  not  close  to  the  maximum 
weight  for  the  age  at  the  time  of  the  show  stands  a  very  poor  chance 
for  winning  unless  it  is  exceptionally  strong  in  other  points,  such 
as  color  and  shape.  The  exhibitor  cannot  afford  to  overlook  small 
disqualifications  and  should  be  very  familiar  with  the  standard  of 
the  breed  concerned.  It  is  also  a  good  practice  to  visit  shows  and  be 
more  or  less  familiar  with  the  methods  usually  followed  in  judging 
fancy  rabbits. 

Fancy  rabbits  and  rabbits  sold  as  breeders  will  require  shipping 
cases  such  as  that  shown  in  figure  13.  Note  that  packages  cannot 
easily  be  stacked  on  this  case  so  the  animals  are  assured  plenty  of 


1927] 


RABBIT    RAISING 


35 


air.  If  the  owner  has  only  a  single  rabbit,  he  may  prefer  to  carry 
the  animal  on  the  street  car  to  local  shows  in  a  light  hand  carrier. 
A  hand  grip  should  be  attached  to  the  top.  Ventilation  should  be 
provided  in  all  carriers  used  and  they  should  be  cleaned  regularly 
to  keep  out  such  diseases  as  coccidiosis.  Only  one  rabbit  should  be 
placed  in  a  compartment  because  two  rabbits  in  the  same  compartment 
may  fight  and  injure  each  other  during  shipment.  Carriers  should  be 
made  of  ample  size  for  the  rabbits  being  carried,  and  should  be  bedded 
with  straw  so  that  the  fur  coat  will  not  be  soiled.     A  little  feed  may 


Fig.  13. — Single  compartment  shipping  box,  18  inches  wide,  22  inches  long, 
14  inches  high  at  the  center  and  8  inches  at  the  sides. 


be  inclosed  if  this  be  deemed  necessary.  Most  breedei:s  will  prefer 
to  go  with  the  animals  or  carry  them  in  an  automobile,  and  in  such 
cases  feed  and  water  will  seldom  be  necessary. 

The  exhibition  of  rabbits  has  been  of  great  educational  value  to 
producers  and  to  those  who  would  take  up  rabbit  raising  as  a  business. 
Those  communities  which  have  staged  rabbit  shows  have  usually  been 
the  most  progressive  in  the  production  of  rabbits.  The  exhibition  of 
rabbits  calls  for  organization  among  producers.  The  contacts  between 
members  and  the  public  has  assisted  in  increasing  the  production  of 
rabbits  and  in  the  sale  of  breeding  rabbits  and  rabbit  products.  In 
this  way  rabbit  shows  have  been  helpful  to  both  the  rabbit  fanciers 
and  utility  breeders. 


36  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 


DISEASES   AND    REMEDIES 

Rabbit  owners  should  see  that  the  hutches  are  kept  dry  and 
sanitary  every  day  in  the  year.  It  is  very  easy  to  become  careless 
and  allow  diseases  to  g'ain  a  foothold.  A  thorough  spraying  of  the 
hutches  and  manure  holders  once  each  week  with  good  disinfectant, 
should  help  keep  the  hutches  sanitary.  Sunshine  within  the  hutches 
will  also  assist  in  the  disinfecting. 

All  feed  and  water  should  be  kept  in  clean  holders  away  from 
manure  and  urine.  Coccidiosis  spreads  almost  entirely  through  soiled 
feed  and  dampness. 

When  securing  new  rabbits  be  exceedingly  careful  to  purchase  only 
healthy,  vigorous  animals.  If  the  breeder  is  ignorant  in  these  matters, 
he  should  secure  the  services  of  someone  who  is  familiar  with  them. 
Then  by  proper  care  and  management  the  rabbits  may  be  kept  prac- 
tically free  from  disease. 

Administering  Medicine. — The  best  form  in  which  to  give  medicine 
to  rabbits  for  internal  use  is  as  a  powder.  Gently  grasp  the  rabbit 
by  the  back  of  the  neck  with  one  hand  and  place  the  other  hand  on 
the  rabbit's  hips.  Then  turn  the  rabbit  on  its  back  and  place  the 
right  arm  over  the  hindquarters,  holding  the  animal  so  it  cannot  kick. 
Animals  which  have  not  been  handled  much  may  object  to  being 
turned  over  on  their  back,  but  with  a  little  patience  the  animal  may 
be  quieted  and  turned.  One  hand  should  be  used  to  hold  the  head 
and  the  other  be  free  to  administer  the  medicine.  A  rabbit  fur  or 
piece  of  burlap  or  carpet  spread  on  the  table  or  bench  will  keep  the 
fur  from  being  soiled  or  injured.  With  the  rabbit's  nose  turned 
upward,  gently  press  the  jaws  apart  with  thumb  and  finger  and 
place  the  powdered  medicine  well  back  of  the  rabbit's  tongue. 

Liquid  medicines  for  the  nostrils  are  most  easily  applied  with  a 
small  oil  can.  Gently  squirt  the  medicine  well  up  the  opened  nostrils 
and  place  a  little  on  the  forefeet.  Then  allow  the  rabbit  to  stand  on 
its  feet  to  catch  its  breath  and  prevent  the  liquid  from  getting  into 
the  lungs.  An  eye  dropper  can  also  be  used  for  applying  liquids  to 
the  nostrils  and  eyes  or  for  placing  them  well  down  the  throat. 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISINO  37 


INFECTIOUS  DISEASES 

Snuffles. —  (Non-malignant  snuffles,  colds).  This  is  one  of  the  most 
common  and  dreaded  of  diseases.  The  term  "snuffles"  is  ordinarily 
applied  to  any  diseased  condition  of  rabbits  that  is  characterized  by 
a  discharge  from  the  nostrils,  sneezing,  and  by  general  symptoms  that 
indicate  a  bad  cold.  It.  is  important  to  distinguish  between  different 
diseases  that  may  be  confused  with  ordinary  snuffles.  Non-malignant 
snuffles  is  caused  by  an  organism  very  similar  to  the  one  causing 
hemorrhagic  septicemia,  though  not  considered  the  same  by  some 
investigators.  In  some  cases  pneumonia  may  follow  snuffles  and  com- 
plicate the  trouble.  When  pneumonia  accompanies  snuffles  the  disease 
may  be  fatal.  The  malignant  form  of  snuffles  is  nothing  more  than 
coccidiosis  according  to  some  specialists. 

Non-malignant  snuffles  may  be  treated  as  a  cold,  and  while  we 
are  not  sure  that  treatments  for  colds  are  of  much  value,  still  the 
animal  may  be  relieved  of  some  of  its  suffering  until  the  disease  runs 
its  course.  Oil  of  eucalyptus  is  one  of  the  most  common  remedies. 
Mix  three  drops  with  one  fluid  ounce  of  liquid  petroleum  or  olive  oil 
(sweet  oil)  and  apply  to  the  nostrils  with  an  oil  can.  This  should  be 
repeated  once  each  day. 

Recently  a  mixed  infection  bacterin  (Lepine)  for  non-malignant 
snuffles  has  been  produced  under  government  license  and  with  curative 
and  preventive  values  claimed  for  it.  It  can  be  obtained  from  labora- 
tories dealing  in  biologic  supplies.  Since  the  minimum  sold  is  rather 
large  it  w^ill  hardly  pay  to  treat  just  one  or  two  rabbits.  The  mixed 
bacterin  will  be  best  suited  for  the  larger  rabbitries  or  for  several 
breeders  w4io  go  in  together  to  have  their  animals  treated. 

As  soon  as  any  of  the  symptoms  of  snuffles  appear,  remove  the 
animal  to  clean,  dry  quarters  where  the  rabbit  can  get  plenty  of  fresh 
air  and  remain  warm  and  free  from  drafts.  In  case  of  pneumonia 
the  rabbit  may  be  wrapped  in  a  blanket  or  cloth  to  keep  it  warm. 
Give  the  animal  plenty  of  green  feed,  clean  Avater,  and  w^holesome 
hay  and  grain.  The  floor  may  be  covered  with  sawdust,  but  any 
bedding  used  should  be  changed  as  often  as  necessary  to  keep  the 
hutch  clean.  Ammonia  fumes  from  manure  left  in  the  hutch  are 
sufficient  to  cause  considerable  irritation  of  the  nasal  passages.  Musty, 
dusty,  or  smutty  feeds  are  to  be  avoided.  If  a  malignant  catarrh 
accompanied  by  a  thick  discharge  from  the  nose  developes,  coccidiosis 
may  be  suspected.  See  coccidiosis  for  further  consideration  of  the 
other  symptoms  and  for  treatment. 


38  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

Coccidiosis  (Spotted  liver,  malignant  snuffles,  malignant  catarrh). 
— This  disease  is  caused  by  a  microscopic  animal  parasite,  Eimeria 
cuniculi.  Three  forms  of  the  disease  are  commonly  found:  (1)  the 
intestinal  form,  (2)  the  liver  (hepatic)  form,  and  (3)  the  nasal  form. 
Slobbers  and  abscesses  may  also  appear  as  outward  symptoms  of  this 
disease  though  such  symptoms  when  not  associated  with  the  other 
usual  indications  are  not  to  be  construed  as  symptoms  of  coccidiosis. 

When  coccidiosis  attacks  rabbits  it  is  fatal  in  a  large  percentage 
of  cases.  The  disease  spreads  rapidly  and  attacks  young  rabbits  from 
a  month  to  three  months  old  most  severely.  Older  rabbits  may  also 
be  attacked  but  the  disease  is  not  so  fatal  to  them.  Many  of  them 
may  survive  but  serve  as  carriers  of  the  parasites  to  healthy  animals. 
The  parasites  causing  coccidiosis  of  rabbits  are  spread  by  means  of 
the  droppings.  Any  feed  or  water  that  comes  in  contact  with  infective 
droppings  permits  healthy  rabbits  to  become  infected.  The  organisms 
have  an  incubation  period  in  the  droppings  of  about  a  week,  during 
which  time  they  are  not  infective,  and  it  is  this  characteristic  that  is 
so  important  in  control  work. 

Coccidiosis  in  the  acute  stage  is  manifested  by  poor  appetite, 
lack  of  energy,  dullness  of  the  fur,  loss  of  weight,  abdominal  dropsy, 
and  convulsions  followed  by  death.  Other  symptoms  may  appear  on 
post  mortem. 

Post-mortem  examination  w^ould  show  the  intestinal  form  to  have 
caused  lesions  and  the  inner  coat  of  the  intestines  will  be  covered  with 
small  bloodshot  areas  about  the  size  of  a  pin  point  or  pin  head.  The 
blood  and  flesh  often  have  a  pale,  watery  appearance. 

The  parasites  may  work  their  way  up  into  the  liver  in  a  large 
percentage  of  cases  and  cause  small,  raised  white  areas  which  give  the 
name  ''spotted  liver."  This  is  the  form  of  coccidiosis  that  is  most 
often  considered,  yet  the  other  forms  are  just  as  important.  White 
spots  on  the  liver  of  an  animal  that  is  being  dressed  for  market 
indicate  that  coccidiosis  has  been  contracted  at  some  time. 

The  nasal  form  of  coccidiosis  might  be  termed  malignant  catarrh. 
The  discharge  from  the  nose  in  an  ordinary  cold  is  normally  thin 
and  watery,  whereas  the  discharge  in  the  case  of  coccidiosis  becomes 
heavy  and  rather  orange  in  color.  The  nostrils,  breast,  and  front 
feet  become  soiled  with  the  thick  discharge.  Blood-shot  points  may 
also  appear  in  the  nasal  passages.  The  rabbit  usually  shows  the  other 
symptoms  of  the  disease  such  as  weakness,  loss  of  weight,  loss  of 
appetite,  and  dull  coat.  Sneezing  alone  is  not  sufficient  to  indicate 
the  disease. 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  39 

Slobbers  is  usually  a  digestive  disorder,  and  yet  in  some  cases  the 
parasites  causing  coccidiosis  may  set  up  such  a  disturbance  in  the 
digestive  tract  that  symptoms  of  slobbers  may  appear.  If  the  rabbit 
has  the  other  symptoms  of  coccidiosis,  treat  the  ailment  in  the  manner 
already  outlined.  Ordinary  slobbers  will  be  discussed  a  little  later. 
(See  treatment  of  slobbers  as  a  digestive  disorder.) 

Coccidiosis  is  incurable  and  so-called  cures  and  "specifics"  are  not 
only  a  waste  of  money  but  give  a  dangerous  sense  of  security  when  as 
a  matter  of  fact  the  affected  animals  can  never  be  more  than  a  source 
of  trouble,  even  if  they  apparently  recover.  The  same  thing  can  be 
said  about  cures  for  the  malignant  form  of  snuffles ;  so  do  not  attempt 
to  use  a  "cure"  or  "specific"  for  this  incurable  disease.  If  the 
diseased  animals  are  killed  and  burned  or  buried  in  quick  lime  and 
the  hutches  thoroughly  disinfected,  the  owner  can  then  start  with 
animals  known  to  be  healthy. 

By  cleaning  the  hutches  out  very  thoroughly  at  least  twice  each 
week  to  break  the  breeding  cycle  of  the  parasites  and  also  by  disin- 
fecting with  scalding  soda  water  or  other  good  disinfectant  twice  a 
month,  there  will  be  little  chance  for  coccidiosis  to  gain  a  foothold. 
All  rabbit  shipping  crates  or  hand  carriers  should  be  treated  like  the 
hutches  and  all  new  stock  should  be  kept  separate  until  freedom  from 
any  serious  disease  has  been  proven.  Infected  manure  should  be 
burned  and  in  no  case  should  greens  or  other  feed  that  has  been 
fertilized  with  manure  from  infected  rabbits  be  used.  All  feed  should 
be  fed  in  racks  or  dishes  and  never  on  the  hutch  floor  where  it  is 
likely  to  come  in  contact  with  infective  manure.  Remember  that 
rabbits  which  have  access  to  plenty  of  fresh  air  and  sunshine  and 
a  well  balanced  diet  are  relatively  free  from  serious  ailments.  The 
rabbit  breeder  who  manages  his  animals  in  the  way  outlined  above 
has  little  to  fear,  but  let  carelessness  creep  in  and  failure  will  soon 
result. 

Ve7it  Diseases. — These  diseases  are  usually  spread  by  breeding 
infected  animals.  The  first  symptoms  are  a  severe  inflammation  of 
the  sexual  organs  followed  a  little  later  by  sores.  Animals  so  infected 
are  unfit  for  breeders  and  will  be  disqualified  when  entered  in  a  show. 

It  is  best  to  stop  breeding  from  any  infected  animals.  It  is 
doubtful  whether  vent  diseases  can  be  cured.  In  the  past  treatment 
has  consisted  of  administering  25  per  cent  Argyrol  with  a  medicine 
dropper  three  or  four  times  a  day  to  all  affected  parts.  Unless  the 
rabbit  is  particularly  valuable,  it  may  be  better  to  dispatch  it  to 
avoid  any  possible  spread  of  the  disease. 


40  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

Eye  Trouhle  (Blindness  of  the  young). — This  trouble  is  probably 
due  to  infection  and  may  be  treated  accordingly.  The  adults  have 
running  eyes  and  the  young  may  have  swollen  eyes.  Sometimes  red 
pimples  occur  around  the  eyelids  and  young  animals  may  become 
totally  blind. 

Since  eye  trouble  usuallj^  occurs  where  the  hutches  are  filthy  and 
injurious  gases  present,  the  first  thing  to  do  is  to  clean  up  the  quarters 
and  disinfect  them  thoroughly.  Affected  animals  should  have  their 
eyes  washed  with  boric  acid,  one  tablespoonful  of  powdered  boric  acid 
to  one  pint  of  water.  The  boric  acid  dissolves  best  in  hot  water,  but 
the  solution  should  be  allowed  to  cool  before  being  used.  Iodoform 
ointment  may  be  used  for  any  running  sores  that  develop. 

Soi^e  Hocks. — This  trouble  is  due  to  the  rabbit  stamping  its  feet 
in  filthy,  wet  hutches,  thus  causing  the  legs  to  become  irritated,  in- 
fected, and  sore.  Very  heavy  rabbits  are  often  subject  to  hock 
injuries. 

Clean  up  the  hutches,  then  thoroughly  disinfect  the  floor  and  allow 
it  to  become  dry.  Put  in  clean  straw  or  hay  bedding.  The  sore  hocks 
can  be  coated  with  carbolized  vaseline  and  bandaged.  Iodoform  has 
also  been  recommended.  Remove  bandages  as  often  as  necessary  to 
keep  the  sores  clean  and  to  apply  more  vaseline. 

INSECTS  AND  OTHER  PARASITES 

Eabhit  Ear  Mange  or  Canker  (Scabies). — Ear  canker  is  caused  by 
an  infestation  of  the  ears  with  the  rabbit  ear  mange  mite.  The  exuded 
matter  and  crusts  resulting  from  the  irritation  of  the  mite  should  be 
removed  with  a  blunt  piece  of  wood  or  with  a  hairpin,  and  a  good 
antiseptic  salve  or  ointment  applied.  Warm  olive  oil  is  recommended 
after  the  place  has  first  been  cleaned.  One  part  powdered  camphor 
to  two  parts  zinc  oxide  is  also  recommended  as  a  dusting  powder. 
Carbolated  olive  oil  has  given  good  results.  Ear  canker  is  easily  cured 
with  a  few  treatments.    It  will  disqualify  a  rabbit  for  show  purposes. 

Skin  Trouhles  and  Insect  Pests. — Occasionally  rabbits  are  attacked 
by  fleas  and  other  skin  parasites.  A  good  insect  powder,  such  as 
pyrethrum,  dusted  over  the  skin  and  rubbed  in  well,  will  rid  the 
animals  of  fleas.  Where  skin  troubles  are  of  a  parasitic  nature  the 
animal  may  be  treated  as  for  the  mange  mite.  As  a  part  of  the  control 
of  skin  parasites,  it  is  a  good  practice  to  thoroughly  clean  and  dis- 
infect the  hutches  to  destroy  any  possible  breeding  places  of  the 
parasites.  If  the  hutches  are  kept  clean,  rabbits  will  rarely  be  infested 
with  insect  pests. 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  41 


NON-INFECTIOUS  DISEASES 

Pot  Belly. — This  trouble  is  usually  found  only  among  the  young 
and  may  be  caused  by  the  rabbit  eating  an  excessive  amount  of  damj^ 
or  wet  green  feed  or  musty  haj^  and  grain.  Too  much  crude  fiber  in 
the  ration  may  be  a  factor.  The  young  which  are  weaned  too  soon 
may  be  unable  to  properly  digest  the  more  bulky  food  and  excessive 
amounts  of  green  feed.  In  all  of  these  cases  the  abdomen  becomes 
swollen  and  pendant. 

Remove  the  cause  of  the  trouble  by  avoiding  wet  or  musty  feed 
and  by  reducing  the  amount  of  feed,  if  necessary.  Give  the  rabbits 
plenty  of  exercise  by  having  the  hutches  large  enough  for  the  animals 
to  move  about  easily.  Affected  rabbits  should  be  given  a  dose  of 
castor  oil,  from  one  to  two  teaspoonfuls  according  to  size  and  age. 
This  medicine,  being  a  liquid,  is  hard  to  administer.  Experienced 
persons  use  a  rubber  tube,  while  amateurs  may  use  a  medicine  dropper 
and  give  the  oil  so  the  rabbit  can  swallow  the  dose  in  small  amounts. 
In  mild  cases  place  a  few  drops  of  oil  in  the  feed. 

Slohhers. —  (See  snuffles  and  coccidiosis.)  This  trouble  may  be  a 
symptom  of  either  snuffles  or  coccidiosis.  Many  producers  consider 
slobbers  to  be  a  form  of  indigestion,  especially  resulting  from  using 
excessive  amounts  of  green  feed  or  green  feed  to  which  the  young 
rabbits  are  not  accustomed.  If  indigestion  seems  to  be  the  cause,  then 
the  slobbers  may  be  cured  by  regulating  the  diet  as  already  outlined 
in  connection  with  feeding.  More  bulk  in  the  form  of  wheat  bran 
will  help  prevent  impaction  and  indigestion.  Any  change  in  the  diet 
should  be  gradual. 

Constipation. — This  usually  occurs  when  too  much  dry  feed  is 
given.  The  remedy  is  to  give  more  green  feed  and  in  extreme  cases, 
use  castor  oil  as  suggested  for  "pot  belly." 

Diarrhea. — This  is  another  common  trouble,  which  is  not  serious 
if  taken  care  of  in  time.  It  may  be  caused  by  using  too  much  green 
feed  after  the  stock  has  been  confined  to  hay  and  grain.  Severe 
digestive  disorders  may  be  followed  by  diarrhea.  Sometimes  young 
nursing  rabbits  do  not  get  enough  milk  and  in  their  weakened  con- 
dition may  be  affected  by  digestive  disorders  and  diarrhea. 

When  the  bowels  become  too  lose,  remove  the  rabbit  to  a  separate 
hutch.  Reduce  the  amount  of  green  feed  and  give  scalded  milk,  if 
the  rabbits  can  be  induced  to  drink  the  milk.  A  mash  of  bran  and 
oats  or  bread  in  scalded  milk  is  very  good.  Dry  wheat  bran  has  also 
given  good  results. 


42  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 


MISCELLANEOUS  TROUBLES 

Failure  to  Breed. — Occasionally  a  doe  will  fail  to  conceive.  No 
one  treatment  will  be  effective  for  all  cases,  but  several  suggestions 
are  offered.  First  see  that  the  doe  is  not  too  fat.  A  fat  doe  is  in  a 
poor  physical  condition  to  breed.  Avoid  overfeeding  the  doe  on 
starchy  feed  such  as  rolled  barley.  See  that  the  doe  is  fed  sufficient 
greens  and  grain  products  containing  the  seed  germs  because  these 
are  rich  in  vitamin  E.  This  food  factor  is  now  believed  to  regulate 
normal  oestrus  and  also  the  fertility  of  both  the  doe  and  buck.  A 
well  balanced  diet  is  always  an  important  asset  in  obtaining  good 
litters. 

Some  breeders  place  the  doe  in  the  buck's  hutch  and  the  buck  in 
the  doe 's  hutch  for  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours,  after  which  the 
buck  is  placed  in  with  the  doe.  Success  with  this  method  has  been 
reported.  Other  breeders  hold  the  doe  during  the  breeding  process, 
and  by  lifting  the  doe's  tail  slightly,  successful  service  has  been 
secured  in  some  cases  reported.  If  the  doe  complains  and  does  not 
seem  to  be  in  heat,  such  a  practice  is  not  to  be  recommended.  Be  very 
careful  about  avoiding  bites  from  the  buck  when  the  doe  refuses 
service.  The  greatest  trouble  with  failure  to  breed  has  been  experi- 
enced late  in  the  year,  and  especially  with  does  that  have  had  a  very 
long  rest  period. 

In  case  the  buck  seems  to  be  at  fault  try  a  new,  vigorous  buck. 
Then  if  the  doe  fails  to  conceive,  dispose  of  her.  Three  years  is  about 
as  long  as  a  doe  can  be  expected  to  breed  well  and  raise  good  litters. 

Infant  Mortality  and  Abortion. — The  young  may  appear  to  have 
little  life  and  die  without  any  noticeable  cause.  The  trouble  can 
usually  be  traced  back  to  weak  and  unhealthy  parents.  The  doe  may 
have  been  bred  too  often  or  allowed  to  raise  too  many  young.  The 
buck  may  have  been  too  young  for  breeding  or  allowed  to  serve  too 
many  does  or  too  frequently  to  get  good  strong  offspring.  A  lack 
of  food  rich  in  vitamin  E  will  cause  abortion.  The  does'  milk  supply 
may  fail,  in  which  case  the  young  become  thin.  Try  to  find  and 
remove  the  cause  and  the  trouble  will  then  disappear. 

Paralysis  and  Leg  Weakness. — Paralysis  usually  attacks  the  hind 
quarters,  causing  the  rabbit  to  move  with  great  difficulty.  The  trouble 
usually  follows  too  frequent  breeding  or  nursing  too  large  litters.  Leg 
weakness  or  rickets  in  young  rabbits  is  due  to  deficient  calcium  assimi- 
lation.    The  violet  rays  from  the  sun  and  a  balanced  ration  are  the 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  43 

preventives.  With  proper  management  of  the  rabbits  such  troubles 
will  seldom  appear. 

Bites  and  Scratches. — The  wound  should  be  cleaned  with  warm 
water  and  pure  soap  and  then  treated  with  hydrogen  peroxide  two  or 
three  times  a  day.  It  has  been  claimed  that  white  hairs  may  be 
prevented  from  appearing  in  scar  tissue  by  the  use  of  vaseline  or 
similar  ointments  on  the  healing  wound. 

In  severe  cases  where  the  skin  has  been  torn,  the  wound  should 
be  cleansed  and  treated  with  hydrogen  peroxide.  Then  take  a  needle 
and  small  silk  thread,  dip  in  peroxide,  and  take  as  many  stitches  as 
necessary  to  bring  the  edges  of  the  wound  together,  tying  each  stitch 
separately.  The  threads  should  be  long  enough  so  they  can  be  found 
when  removing  about  one  week  later.  Keep  the  wound  disinfected 
with  hydrogen  peroxide  until  healing  starts. 

Molting  or  Shedding. — This  is  not  a  disease,  but  special  care  is 
needed  during  the  first  molt,  which  comes  at  about  six  to  eight  weeks, 
to  see  that  the  rabbits  have  plenty  of  good  feed.  A  little  linseed  oil 
meal  to  help  form  a  good  coat  of  fur,  may  be  added  to  the  grain. 
Many  breeders  prefer  whole  flaxseed  in  preparing  the  rabbits  for 
exhibition,  and  this  may  be  added  at  the  time  of  the  molt.  A  rabbit 
that  is  molting  is  not  in  physical  condition  for  breeding. 

Sudden  Deaths. — Amateurs,  especially,  may  have  same  trouble  in 
determining  the  cause  of  sudden  deaths,  so  a  few  suggestions  under 
this  general  heading  may  be  helpful.  In  a  large  majority  of  cases 
the  sudden  death  of  several  animals  at  the  sam^e  time  indicates  exces- 
sive heat,  coccidiosis,  or  the  use  of  feed  that  is  very  coarse  or  possibly 
poisonous.  By  carefully  checking  up  on  the  existing  conditions,  the 
cause  of  the  deaths  may  be  discovered  and  removed. 

PREPARING    RABBITS   FOR   MARKET 

Killing  Rabbits. — Hold  the  animal  on  a  bench  or  a  table  and  stun 
it  by  a  quick  blow  behind  the  ears.  For  this  purpose  use  a  small, 
heavy  stick  or  iron  bar.  Immediately  after  stunning,  bleed  the  rabbit 
by  cutting  the  jugular  vein  in  the  throat  with  a  sharp  knife ;  then  tie 
the  carcass  to  a  line  or  a  hook  until  bleeding  is  completed.  A  special 
gambrel  has  been  sold  for  hanging  up  rabbits  during  the  dressing 
process,  but  a  homemade  gambrel  will  serve  just  as  w^ell. 

Dressing  Meat  Rabbits  for  Retail  Trade. — If  the  pelts  are  to  be 
saved  for  the  fur  market,  slit  down  the  inside  of  the  legs  with  a 
small  knife  and  also  about  the  neck;  then  by  peeling  down  the  fur 
over  the  legs  and  hindquarters,  strip  the  fur  from  the  body,  leaving 


44 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE 


[CiRC.  9 


the  flesh  side  out.  The  knife  will  be  needed  in  a  few  places  to  sep- 
arate the  skin  from  the  flesh,  especially  along  the  abdomen.  Special 
wire  stretchers  are  sold  or  can  be  made  for  stretching  cased  skins 
during  the  drying  process.  Wire  stretchers  can  be  easily  made  out 
of  8  to  10-gauge  galvanized  wire  (see  fig.  14).  A  board  can  be  used 
in  place  of  the  wire,  but  drying  is  slower.  Cased  skins  are  very  easily 
removed  and  cared  for  and  are  preferred  on  the  fur  market.  Skins 
slit  down  the  front  are  salable,  but  are  not  so  desirable.  The  open 
skin  is  much  harder  to  stretch  for  drying. 

After  removing  the  pelt,  slit  the  carcass  down 
the  abdomen,  starting  near  the  tail.  Cut  around 
the  anal  opening  and  cut  through  the  juncture  of 
the  pelvic  bones ;  then  with  a  little  backward  bend 
of  the  legs,  pry  apart  the  hindquarters  to  expose 
the  lower  intestine.  Follow  on  down  the  abdomen 
with  the  knife  and  remove  the  entrails,  but  leave 
the  kidne3^s  embedded  in  the  fat  along  the  back. 
Remove  the  stomach  and  lungs.  Wash  the  carcass, 
dry,  and  cool  it  until  the  body  heat  has  left.  Some 
dressing  establishments  throw  the  dressed  rabbit 
into  cold  water,  and  after  the  carcass  has  cooled 
off,  pack  it  in  ice  in  the  usual  way.  Never  chill  the 
dressed  rabbit  until  after  the  body  heat  has  left. 

For  local  trade  the  ribs  may  be  broken  to  cause 
the  chest  to  lie  flat  and  give  the  rabbit  less  of  a  life- 
like appearance.  When  the  chest  is  flattened,  it 
will  fry  much  better.  A  few  parsley  leaves  and  a  neat  wrapping  of 
oil  paper  give  an  appetizing  appearance  to  a  dressed  rabbit. 

Hog  Dressing  Rabhits. — Some  markets  prefer  rabbits  which  are 
drawn,  but  which  still  have  the  fur  on.  A  rabbit  dressed  in  this 
way  is  spoken  of  as  being  'hog  dressed.'  Market  quotations  for 
dressed  rabbits  normally  refer  to  hog-dressed  rabbits.  Rabbits  are 
hog-dressed  by  simply  opening  the  abdomen  in  the  usual  manner 
without  first  removing  the  pelt. 

Although  some  markets  prefer  a  hog-dressed  rabbit  because  the 
skin  prevents  the  meat  from  turning  dark  while  being  held,  still  such 
a  method  should  be  discouraged  by  producers  because  of  the  effect 
on  customers.  A  completely  dressed  rabbit  is  more  inviting  than  a 
hog-dressed  rabbit  and  is  less  likely  to  offend  those  for  whom  rabbits 
have  sentimental  associations.  The  United  States  Biological  Survey 
supplies  colored  charts  of  dressed  rabbits  for  encouraging  sales. 


Fig.  14.— Good 
form  of  wire 
stretcher  for  rab- 
bit skins. 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  45 

Care  of  Furs. — The  rabbit  producer  can  save  furs  about  as  easily 
as  he  can  throw  them  away.  Raw  rabbit  pelts  should  be  stretched 
and  dried  as  previously  described,  and  then  stored  away  from  moths 
or  other  pests  until  the  skins  are  tanned  and  marketed.  Paradichloro- 
benzine  or  napthalene  (moth  balls)  will  protect  the  furs  from  moths. 

Commercial  tanneries  and  fur-dressing  establishments  prefer  to 
do  all  of  the  work  connected  with  fur  dressing.  Furs  can  be  tanned 
at  home  as  described  in  the  publications  listed  in  the  bibliography 
(see  p.  56).  Furriers  state  that  pelts  tanned  with  oak  bark  fail  to 
take  the  dye  as  well  as  furs  tanned  in  other  ways.  If  the  furs  are  to 
be  clipped,  it  is  important  to  select  only  those  pelts  which  are  free 
from  molt  or  patches  of  short  hair  because  the  ticking  on  the  short  fur 
will  not  be  removed  by  the  clipper  and  the  finished  fur  will  appear 
uneven  in  color.  Rabbit  breeders  engaging  in  the  production  of  high 
quality  fur  should  endeavor  to  become  familiar  with  what  constitutes 
a  prime  fur  and  should  learn  the  ages  at  which  the  rabbits  are  likely 
to  be  molting. 

A  prime  fur  is  one  which  is  free  from  molt  and  hutch  stain  or 
sun  injury.  The  size  of  the  pelt  as  well  as  the  thickness  of  the  fur 
and  the  under  down  greatly  affect  the  value  of  the  fur  on  the  market. 
A  pelt  with  thin  fur  from  one  of  our  best  fur  breeds  may  sell  for 
hatters'  material  at  about  ten  cents,  while  a  prime  fur  from  one  of 
the  meat  breeds  may  sell  for  nearly  as  much  as  the  better  pelts  from 
fur  breeds.  The  first  molt  will  start  when  the  young  are  about  six 
to  eight  weeks  old.  The  baby  pelt,  when  the  rabbit  is  about  one 
month  old  or  three  and  one-half  months  old,  is  usually  of  fine  quality 
though  rather  thin  and  only  about  3  inches  by  6  inches  in  size.  The 
pelt  again  becomes  prime  when  the  animal  is  from  five  to  six  months 
old  and  from  then  on  will  become  prime  about  every  three  months.  A 
mature  Chinchilla  pelt  is  about  8  inches  by  14  inches  in  size.  The 
pelt  which  is  not  fully  prime  will  show  dark  areas  on  the  flesh  side 
when  dried,  indicating  patches  of  immature  fur.  Try  to  avoid  pelts 
with  this  immature  fur  because  of  the  much  greater  value  of  furs 
taken  at  the  right  time.  Poor  pelts  can  never  make  satisfactory  fur 
garments. 

Manufacturing  Fur  Garments. — It  is  not  within  the  scope  of  this 
publication  to  give  the  details  of  manufacturing  fur  garments  from 
rabbit  pelts,  but  the  producer  will  need  to  know  something  about  the 
use  of  furs.  Illustrations  shown  in  figures  15  and  16  will  give  an  idea 
of  the  accomplishments  of  experienced  workers  in  fur.  Some  of  the 
garments  now  being  made  are  so  expertly  finished  that  only  a  skilled 
workman  can  tell  that  rabbit  fur  has  been  used.     The  fur  sewing 


46 


CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE 


[CiRC.  9 


machine  has  been  a  wonderful  asset  in  making  acceptable  garments; 
patches  made  with  it  cannot  be  detected  from  outward  appearance. 
Many  pleasing  effects  are  secured  by  cutting  the  pelts  on  a  bias  and 
then  re-sewing  on  the  fur  sewing  machine. 


rig.  15  Fig.  16 

Fig.  15. — Cape  '  of  ' '  Pacific '  ^  seal  of  California  rabbit  skins  trimmed  with 
Chinchilla  rabbit. 

Fig.  16. — Coat  from  California  rabbit  skins,  one  of  the  serviceable  garments 
being  manufactured. 

It  is  a  serious  mistake  for  the  person  w^ho  is  improperly  equipped 
to  attempt  the  manufacture  of  fur  garments  because  the  final  product 
will  always  show  lack  of  skill  and  poor  workmanship.  The  furrier 
has  had  years  of  experience  and  is  equipped  with  the  latest  devices 
for  dressing  and  manufacturing  furs.  In  most  cases  it  would  be  better 
to  limit  the  use  of  the  furs  to  trimming  garments  unless  lessons  in  fur 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  47 

manufacture  can  be  taken.  In  southern  California  lessons  have  been 
given  to  women  wishing  to  manufacture  rabbit  fur  garments,  and 
doubtless  special  arrangements  for  such  lessons  could  be  made  in 
many  districts  if  sufficient  interest  were  shown. 


MARKETING    RABBITS   AND   PELTS 

Marketing  Live  Rabbits. — Most  of  the  live  rabbits  marketed  in 
this  state  are  gathered  by  automobile  trucks  sent  out  weekly  or  bi- 
monthly from  large  killing  establishments.  As  many  as  2,000  rabbits 
are  killed  in  a  day  in  Los  Angeles  and  most  of  these  rabbits  are 


Fig.  17. — The  pick-up  rabbit  buyer  has  been  one  of  the  most  important 
factors  in  the  sale  of  meat  rabbits  raised  considerable  distance  from  market. 

gathered  by  the  pick-up  buyer  (see  fig.  17).  Up  to  the  present  time 
the  express  rate  on  live  rabbits  is  about  double  that  on  poultry; 
consequently  the  shipper  finds  marketing  by  express  rather  expensive. 
An  effort  is  being  made  to  have  the  express  rate  on  rabbits  lowered  so 
that  it  will  be  more  like  that  on  live  poultry. 

Marketing  Dressed  Rabbits. — Many  rabbit  raisers  do  their  own 
killing  but  sell  on  a  basis  of  live  weight.  The  home  dressing  of  rabbits 
will  usually  return  the  producer  a  little  greater  profit  than  marketing 
alive.  The  producer  is  in  a  better  position  to  see  that  the  consumer 
receives  only  the  best  rabbits  when  he  does  his  own  killing  and  dress- 
ing. However  it  should  be  remembered  that  only  a  very  small  and 
unstable  industry  can  be  built  upon  direct  and  independent  mar- 
keting. 


48  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

Effect  of  Imports. — Occasionally  imported  meat  rabbits  find  their 
way  to  our  markets.  Frozen  Australian  rabbits  enter  this  country 
and  sell  for  from  twenty-two  to  twenty-five  cents  apiece  wholesale, 
and  thirty-five  cents  apiece  or  three  for  a  dollar  retail.  The  meat  of 
these  imported  rabbits  is  often  dark  red  in  color  and  far  from  appetiz- 
ing. Some  dealers  have  stopped  handling  the  frozen  imported  rabbits 
because  of  the  low  quality  represented.  The  greatest  danger  of  these 
low  quality  imported  rabbits  is  not  due  to  competition  on  the  open 
market,  but  rather  to  the  effect  on  the  consumer's  demand  for  any 
kind  of  rabbit  meat.  Low  quality  rabbits  or  those  which  have  been 
improperly  dressed  tend  to  destroy  the  demand  for  rabbit  meat  at 
any  time.  Therefore  American  producers  should  endeavor  to  keep  low 
quality  animals  off  the  market  whether  the  animals  are  imported  or 
produced  at  home. 

Our  local  rabbit  raisers  can  hardly  expect  to  compete  with  the 
low-priced  imported  rabbit  pelts  largely  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  hatters'  felt.  However,  the  imports  do  not  prevent  the  production 
and  sale  of  some  high  quality  rabbit  furs  at  prices  ranging  from 
40  cents  to  $1.50  a  'raw'  pelt. 

Cooperative  Marketing. — Many  people  are  successfully  raising 
rabbits,  but  only  a  part  of  these  producers  are  marketing  their  rabbits 
to  the  best  advantage.  Unless  the  producer  does  market  efficiently, 
it  would  be  better  for  all  concerned  if  he  never  started  in  the  rabbit 
business.  Many  of  the  successful  branches  of  agriculture  are  now 
based  on  individual  production  and  collective  marketing  and  financing. 
Cooperative  marketing  of  rabbits  and  rabbit  products  is  an  urgent 
need  and  already  a  start  in  this  direction  has  been  made  in  southern 
California.  Greater  cooperation  among  rabbit  producers  is  shown 
in  most  parts  of  California  by  a  considerable  increase  in  the  number 
of  rabbit  breeders '  associations  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  trivial  differ- 
ences among  producers  can  be  smoothed  out  and  forgotten  so  that 
hearty  cooperation  in  marketing  may  ultimately  result.  Both  con- 
sumers and  producers  should  benefit  from  cooperative  marketing 
because  a  regular  supply  and  a  regular  demand  could  be  built  up 
which  in  turn  would  do  away  with  serious  fluctuations  and  losses  to 
the  producers. 

Any  selling  organization  must  be  assured  of  a  regular  supply 
before  selling  contracts  can  be  made  with  buyers.  No  group  is  better 
qualified  to  estimate  the  supply  than  organized  rabbit  breeders.  As 
long  as  there  is  a  lack  of  cooperation  in  selling,  prices  will  probably 
fluctuate,  and  markets  will  be  uncertain.  High  winter  prices  tend 
to  reduce  consumption  and  low  summer  prices  tend  to  reduce  produc- 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  49 

tion.  Prices  offered  for  meat  rabbits  have  ranged  between  11  and  22 
cents  a  pound  live  weight  during  a  year,  whereas  costs  of  production 
remain  about  the  same.  In  most  cases  rabbits  have  been  marketed  on 
a  locality  rather  than  on  a  commodity  basis.  As  a  result,  prices  have 
fallen  low  at  times  simply  because  there  was  no  organization  to  extend 
the  market  beyond  the  locality  where  the  rabbits  were  produced. 

The  marketing  of  furs  is  not  so  much  a  question  of  selling  a  few 
furs  for  special  orders  at  a  fancy  price  as  it  is  a  problem  of  collecting 
and  selling  pelts  in  lots  of  a  thousand  at  a  time.  New  York  dealers 
have  been  our  most  reliable  buyers  of  furs  from  the  Pacific  Coast,  but 
even  the  eastern  buyers  have  at  times  refused  to  take  our  output. 
Quite  recently  a  rabbit  breeders'  exchange  has  been  formed  on  the 
New  York  market  for  the  collecting  of  rabbit  furs  from  all  parts  of 
the  country.  The  Exchange  is  backed  by  organized  rabbit  breeders 
and  is  marketing  directly  to  large  fur  dealers  at  a  cost  of  10  per  cent 
of  gross  sales.  A  few  furriers  are  now  buying  small  lots  of  furs  on 
the  Pacific  Coast,  and  a  large  firm  has  been  organized  in  southern 
California  to  handle  various  rabbit  products,  including  furs.  The 
present  outlook  is  for  an  increasing  interest  in  rabbit  furs  by  local 
manufacturers. 

Many  rabbit  raisers  will  want  to  have  furs  tanned  and  dyed  and 
perhaps  clipped  for  use  in  the  home  or  for  sale  locally.  This  work 
can  be  done  on  this  coast  as  well  as  anywhere.  A  large  San  Francisco 
firm  claims  to  do  90  per  cent  of  the  work  of  fur  dressing  on  the  Pacific 
Coast,  covering  the  entire  line  of  fur  dressing  and  dyeing.  Rabbit 
furs  are  made  into  beaverette,  moline,  sealine,  and  many  other  fur 
products  bearing  trade  names. 

The  rabbit  industry  needs  more  people  who  are  free  from  violent 
prejudices  either  for  or  against  the  industry  as  a  whole  or  against 
any  of  its  branches.  Market  demands  already  developed  are  large 
enough  to  take  care  of  a  fairly  heavy  production  of  meat  and  fur 
if  producers  will  only  work  together.  It  may  be  true  that  the  sale 
of  meat  depends  on  appetites  and  the  sale  of  fur  on  styles,  but  markets 
can  be  developed  which  will  warrant  a  considerable  increase  in  both 
lines  of  production.  Buyers  of  rabbit  products  are  justified  in  expect- 
ing the  good  will  of  producers  so  long  as  good  markets  are  developed 
and  fair  treatment  is  accorded.  Buyers  and  producers  are  dependent 
upon  each  other  for  successful  sales  and  for  the  development  of  the 
rabbit  industry  in  general.  A  closer  cooperation  among  producers 
will  be  very  useful  in  developing  good  will  among  all  concerned.  One 
national,  one  state,  and  one  local  association  will  be  all  that  can 
function  well.  Duplication  of  effort,  either  in  setting  standards  or  in 
selling,  is  injurious  to  the  best  interests  of  commercial  rabbit  raising. 


50  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC. 


COSTS  AND    INCOME 

It  is  a  dangerous  thing  to  mention  costs  and  profits  without  speci- 
fying conditions.  Too  often  beginners  have  been  led  to  believe  that 
certain  profits  could  be  expected  when  actual  experience  did  not  bear 
out  the  statements  made.  The  factors  already  mentioned  exert  such 
a  tremendous  influence  on  profit  and  loss  that  any  figures  which  might 
be  given  would  necessarily  apply  only  to  specific  cases  and  so  perhaps 
only  represent  possibilities  or  typical  cases  of  good  judgment. 

One  person  can  handle  up  to  200  breeding  does.  One  buck  is 
needed  for  about  every  ten  does.  The  investment  for  a  breeding 
rabbit  will  range  from  a  few  dollars  up  to  as  high  as  twenty-five 
dollars,  depending  upon  the  breed  and  the  quality  of  the  animal. 
A  range  of  from  five  to  ten  dollars  for  an  ordinary  breeding  animal 
and  from  ten  to  twenty-five  dollars  for  animals  in  new  breeds  is 
common. 

Feed  has  cost  from  $3.50  to  $3.75  a  doe  annually  and  occasionally 
more  in  some  well  known  commercial  rabbitries  in  different  parts  of 
the  state.  The  feed  for  a  young  rabbit  has  cost  about  45  cents  for 
the  first  two  months  when  a  live  weight  of  three  pounds  may  be 
attained.  A  feed  cost  of  %  of  a  cent  a  day  for  the  first  two  or  three 
months  is  a  fair  average  when  most  of  the  feed  is  bought.  This 
applies  to  both  meat  and  fur  rabbits.  A  few  producers  estimate  the 
cost  as  low  as  30  cents  for  the  first  two  months.  Beyond  this  period 
the  monthly  feed  bill  will  range  between  20  and  28  cents  a  rabbit, 
depending  on  the  location.  If  most  of  the  feed  is  raised  at  home,  the 
cost  may  be  lowered  considerably. 

Labor  costs  have  been  about  equal  to  the  feed  costs  for  the  first 
three-months  period,  allowing  about  seventeen  minutes  to  a  rabbit 
monthly.  The  labor  allowance  should  be  more  where  much  hired 
help  is  used. 

Hutch  rent  should  be  based  on  the  cost  of  the  hutch.  For  example, 
a  six-compartment  $20  hutch  with  interest  at  6  per  cent  would  carry 
an  interest  charge  of  10  cents  a  month.  One  producer  placed  the 
hutch  rent  for  each  rabbit  at  about  15  cents  for  a  thirteen-week 
period. 

Income  and  Profit. — Some  rabbit  raisers  have  made  good  wages 
and  a  fair  profit  on  the  investment  while  others  have  only  about  met 
the  costs.  Still  others  have  lost  money.  Any  average  that  we  might 
give  would  include  good  and  bad  and  therefore  not  represent  the 


1927]  RABBIT   RAISING  51 

better  rabbitries.  It  is  important  to  consider  rabbit  raisers  who  have 
been  in  business  for  several  years  as  representing  possibilities  for  the 
beginner  who  is  willing  to  profit  by  the  experience  of  others. 

It  has  already  been  stated  that  after  figuring  cost  of  feed  some 
producers  have  received  an  income  of  a  little  more  than  $5  a  doe  a 
year,  allowing  four  litters  of  five  rabbits  each  to  a  doe  and  a  total 
of  60  pounds  of  meat  which  sold  at  30  cents  a  pound  completely 
dressed.  An  allowance  of  $1  a  doe  a  month  has  been  made  in  some 
instances,  but  this  is  seldom  obtained,  especially  by  the  beginner  or 
the  person  who  has  to  pay  high  prices  for  feed.  However  the  income 
to  a  doe  above  cost  of  feed  should  be  about  1%  times  her  annual  feed 
cost  under  normal  conditions  where  meat  is  the  principal  source  of 
income. 

The  figures  supplied  by  a  breeder  dealing  largely  in  fur  rabbits 
show  that  for  the  year  1925  about  69  per  cent  of  the  income  came 
from  breeders,  21  per  cent  from  meat,  and  only  8  per  cent  from  the 
sale  of  skins.  Such  figures  clearly  show  that  some  producers  of  fur 
rabbits  are  making  only  a  relatively  small  part  of  their  income  from 
the  sale  of  furs.  In  other  words  some  producers  of  fur  rabbits 
produce  breeders  rather  than  pelts. 

Value  of  Eahhit  Fur. — Imported  rabbit  pelts  have  averaged  from 
17  to  25  cents  each  in  bale  lots  (100  lbs.).  The  Rabbit  Breeders' 
Exchange  recently  established  by  the  American  Rabbit  and  Cavy 
Breeders'  Association  sold  in  its  first  pool  about  100,000  pelts.  The 
first  pool  averaged  about  15  cents  a  pelt  with  the  best  mature  prime 
pelts  selling  at  from  75  cents  to  $1.50  each.  Prime  pelts  of  mature 
meat  rabbits  such  as  the  New  Zealand,  American  Blue,  and  Flemish, 
brought  from  25  cents  to  40  cents  each.  The  best  white  furs  brought 
75  cents  each  and  were  in  greatest  demand  by  the  furriers.  The  200 
Chinchilla  furs  ranged  in  price  from  75  cents  to  $1.50  each.  In  some 
instances  where  the  furs  have  been  used  locally  for  fur  garments, 
prime  rabbit  pelts  have  brought  very  fancy  prices  but  these  special 
markets  have  always  been  limited  and  not  dependable  for  any  large 
number  of  producers.  Warnings  have  recently  been  sent  out  against 
expecting  too  much  from  furs,  not  because  the  fur  was  of  poor  quality 
or  worthless  but  rather  because  of  the  uncertainty  of  the  market.  Fur 
prices  were  comparatively  low  late  in  1926  and  there  was  little  demand 
except  for  Chinchilla  and  white  pelts. 

One  of  the  encouraging  events  in  1926  wa»  the  establishing  of  the 
fur  exchange  already  mentioned.  This  exchange  has  received  the 
backing  of  the  United  States  Biological  Survey.  The  Division  of 
Fur  Resources  of  the  Biological  Survey  is  at  present  working  to 


52  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

improve  conditions  affecting  the  marketing  of  rabbit  furs  and  it  is 
to  be  hoped  that  the  new  exchange  will  give  a  dependable  market  even 
if  the  prices  are  relatively  low.  Recently  a  five-acre  rabbit  experiment 
station  has  been  established  at  Chaffey  Junior  College,  Ontario,  Cali- 
fornia under  the  auspices  of  the  United  States  Department  of  Agri- 
culture. With  the  backing  of  the  organized  producers  the  rabbit 
industry  can  look  ahead  to  a  brighter  future  in  fur  marketing  as  well 
as  in  other  branches  of  the  industry.  Doubtless  dependable  markets 
on  the  Pacific  Coast  will  be  developed  in  time. 

Value  of  Bahhit  Meat. — From  a  food  standpoint,  rabbit  meat  is 
most  excellent  as  shown  by  many  tests  and  by  the  use  of  rabbit  meat 
for  invalids  in  hospitals.  While  these  facts  are  interesting,  the  rabbit 
raiser  is  still  more  interested  in  the  actual  sale  of  rabbit  meat.  Prices 
for  live  rabbits  have  fluctuated  between  14  and  20  cents  a  pound  in 
most  California  markets,  although  prices  have  run  higher  and  lower 
in  individual  cases.  The  distribution  of  the  rabbits  killed  at  any  one 
time  has  a  great  deal  to  do  with  the  prices  offered.  Late  in  1925  prices 
dropped  to  11  and  12  cents  on  one  market,  largely  because  of  the 
poor  distribution  of  the  animals  slaughtered.  Prices  are  normally 
good  late  in  the  year  unless  too  many  rabbits  are  killed  and  then 
poorly  distributed. 

Rabbit  meat  has  retailed  at  from  30  to  40  cents  a  pound  completely 
dressed.  Market  quotations  for  dressed  rabbits  refer  to  the  'hog- 
dressed'  animal.  A  'hog-dressed'  rabbit  has  the  fur  and  head  left  on, 
consequently  there  is  a  loss  in  weight  of  only  about  25  per  cent, 
whereas  the  completely  dressed  rabbit  loses  nearly  50  per  cent  of  its 
live  weight.  We  should  expect  the  dressed-weight  quotation  to  be 
in  between  the  live-weight  price  and  the  price  for  the  completely 
dressed  animal. 

Variations  in  market  prices  point  to  the  urgent  need  for  organized 
selling  so  that  rabbit  products  will  be  properly  distributed.  With 
proper  distribution  and  the  avoidance  of  gluts  on  the  market,  fair 
prices  to  both  the  producer  and  consumer  can  be  expected  and  there 
will  be  less  likelihood  of  the  exorbitant  prices  that  often  follow  a 
disastrous  period  for  the  producer.  Prices  should  range  between  15 
and  20  cents  live  weight  if  the  average  producer  is  to  make  a  profit. 

Value  of  Rahhit  Manure. — It  has  been  estimated  that  one  hundred 
two-months-old  rabbits  will  produce  about  one  ton  of  manure  a  month. 
A  ton  of  manure  is  \%lued  at  from  $12  to  $15,  which  indicates  a 
potential  return  of  15  cents  a  rabbit  monthly  from  manure.  The 
manure  must  be  kept  in  cement  manure  pits  or  applied  directly  to  the 
soil,  to  preserve  the  nitrogen.     The  manure  should  be  used  on  trees 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  53 

and  plants  capable  of  responding  to  nitrogenous  manures  applied  in 
concentrated  form.  Rabbit  manure  is  about  equal  to  sheep  manure 
in  nitrogen  content  and  is  over  three  times  as  rich  in  nitrogen  as 
ordinary  horse  and  cow  manure.  If  the  manure  is  infected  by  the 
germs  causing  coccidiosis  it  becomes  worthless  for  fertilizing  green 
feed  that  is  to  be  used  for  rabbits. 

Total  Capital  Investment  for  Living  Income. — There  are  very  few 
rabbitries  large  enough  to  return  a  good  living  to  the  owner.  If  we 
allow  an  income  of  about  25  cents  for  each  young  meat  rabbit  or  a 
total  of  about  $5  to  a  breeding  doe  a  year  above  cost  of  feed,  it  will 
be  seen  that  a  large  number  of  breeding  does  must  be  kept  to  return 
a  good  living  wage.  There  are  too  few  reliable  records  being  kept 
for  us  to  more  than  point  out  that  the  person  going  into  the  rabbit 
business  as  a  sole  means  of  gaining  a  living  should  plan  carefully  for 
a  reliable  income.  There  will  be  the  usual  production  costs  for  feed, 
supplies,  new  stock,  taxes,  insurance,  depreciation,  and  hired  labor. 
The  family  labor  should  be  allowed  for  as  hired  labor  because  it  would 
entail  an  expense  in  case  there  w^ere  no  family  assistance.  All  income 
beyond  these  overhead  expenses  could  be  used  as  the  owner  saw  fit 
and  is  usually  called  farm  income.  In  addition  there  will  be  interest 
on  investment  and  owner's  labor  to  be  considered  from  a  purely 
business  standpoint. 

When  figuring  on  the  total  investment  necessary  to  give  a  living 
income  it  is  very  unsafe  to  use  the  same  rate  of  income  as  obtained 
with  a  few  breeding  does.  If  the  owner's  labor  is  sufficient  to  take 
care  of  about  200  breeding  does  and  their  normal  offspring  then  extra 
help  will  be  required  when  more  breeding  does  are  added  to  the 
rabbitry.  Naturally  the  farm  income  from  the  added  does  may  be 
less  because  of  the  cost  of  hired  labor.  It  may  take  from  40  to  50 
minutes  of  labor  to  raise  a  three-months-old  rabbit  and  over  100 
minutes  to  raise  a  rabbit  to  six  months  of  age.  If  the  owner  should 
have  to  pay  $12.50  for  labor  in  raising  the  yearly  offspring  of  each- 
breeding  doe  until  the  rabbits  are  about  three  months  old,  he  is  forced 
to  deduct  this  amount  from  the  gross  income,  whereas  he  can  spend 
the  money  which  he  allows  for  his  own  labor.  It  might  easily  happen 
that  the  cost  of  feed  combined  with  that  of  hired  labor  would  amount 
to  more  than  the  sale  price  of  the  rabbits  at  normal  meat  prices. 
Breeding  stock  would  likely  increase  the  income  considerably  but 
the  desirability  of  cautious  investment  is  apparent.  An  income 
of  $1500  to  $2000  above  cost  of  feed  from  200  breeding  does  may 
require  an  investment  of  $5000,  according  to  some  estimates.  A 
possible  loss  may  be  prevented  by  starting  on  a  small  scale.    Then  the 


54  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION   SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

investment  may  be  increased  as  the  income  seems  to  justify.  As  long 
as  present  market  conditions  remain  it  hardly  seems  advisable  to 
invest  heavily  and  then  be  forced  to  hire  expensive  labor  to  take 
care  of  a  large  rabbitry  which  caters  mostly  to  the  meat  trade  or 
sells  low  priced  furs.  In  special  cases  where  fancy  breeding  rabbits 
are  being  sold  at  fancy  prices  the  income  may  justify  a  heavier  invest- 
ment than  that  just  mentioned  but  each  of  these  special  cases  should 
be  considered  separately.  The  owner's  time  should  be  spent  on  the 
maximum  number  of  animals  that  can  be  properly  kept  and  marketed 
to  advantage.  Many  people  with  children  can  use  the  small  rabbitry 
to  augment  the  family  income.  The  rabbits  will  be  raised  with  labor 
which  might  otherwise  be  wasted.  In  any  case  it  is  best  to  stay  with 
the  principal  source  of  income  until  the  income  from  rabbits  seems 
to  justify  a  transition  to  a  larger  rabbitry. 


GOOD   PRACTICES   FOR  THE    RABBIT    RAISER 

1.  Buy  stock  from  a  reliable  breeder.     If  in  doubt  inquire  of  the 

breeders'  associations. 

2.  Start  with  only  one  or  two  breeds.     As  much  depends  on  the 

strains  as  the  breed  and  more  yet  on  the  breeder  and  the  use 
made  of  the  rabbits. 

3.  Keep  the  hutches  dry,  sanitary,  free  from  drafts,  and  provide 

plenty  of  sunlight. 

4.  Isolate  all  sick  or  diseased  animals  and  destroy  animals  which 

cannot  be  cured. 

5.  Use  only  mature  rabbits  as  breeders  and  plan  to  raise  three  to  five 

litters  to  a  doe  each  year.  * 

6.  Use  well-built,  economical  hutches  which  will  prove  inviting  to 

prospective  buyers. 

7.  Rigidly  cull  out  all  inferior  stock  and  plan  gradually  to  improve 

the  quality  of  the  animals  by  using  only  the  best  animals  as 
breeders. 

8.  Feed  regularly  and  use  a  well  balanced  ration. 

9.  Plan  to  buy  feed  in  quantity  at  the  season  of  the  year  when  feed 

prices  are  lowest. 

10.  Endeavor  to  have  an  economical  unit  so  that  the  overhead  expense 
will  be  justified  by  the  returns. 


1927]  RABBIT    RAISING  55 

11.  Have  a  very  definite  market  for  rabbits  and  rabbit  products  before 

starting  in  the  business  and  then  cater  to  this  market  and  seek 
to  extend  it. 

12.  Keep  accurate  records  of  costs  and  expenses  to  see  where  improve- 

ments can  be  made. 

13.  Cooperate  with  other  rabbit  raisers  in  the  marketing  of  rabbits 

and  rabbit  products.     Try  to  have  a  regular  supply. 

14.  Advertise  by  exhibiting  breeding  stock  in  the  local  rabbit  shows 

and  by  placing  display  cards  in  suitable  agricultural  papers. 


SOME   PRACTICES  TO   AVOID 

1.  Do  not  pay  more  for  land,  stock,  or  equipment  than  its  agricul- 

tural value  would  justify  because  a  satisfactory  income  is  then 
impossible  unless  someone  else  assumes  the  liability. 

2.  Avoid  buy-back  schemes  or  contracts  that  are  non-enforceable. 

3.  Do  not  figure  on  higher  prices  for  meat  or  fur  than  have  been 

secured  by  the  average  competent  producer. 

4.  Do  not  buy  inferior  or  diseased  stock  at  any  price. 

5.  Do  not  keep  does  which  have  outlived  their  usefulness. 

6.  Never  misrepresent  stock  that  is  sold  and  do  not  refuse  to  give  a 

guarantee  for  any  animal  that  is  to  be  used  as  a  breeder. 

7.  Do  not  expect  to  make  large  profits  when  feed  is  bought  in  small 

quantities  and  animals  are  marketed  in  small  or  irregular  lots. 

8.  Do  not  throw  green  feed  on  the  floor  and  do  not  change  feeders  or 

dishes  from  one  hutch  to  another  without  first  disinfecting  the 
equipment. 

9.  Do  not  make  sudden  changes  in  the  ration  or  feeding  methods. 

10.  Do  not  use  musty  hay  or  smutty  grain. 

11.  Do  not  contract  for  more  rabbits  or  furs  than  you  can  supply. 

12.  Do  not  let  your  own  mistakes  cause  you  to  become  jealous  of  the 

success  of  others. 

13.  Do  not  expect  to  produce  only  prime  furs  or  only  animals  of 

breeding  quality,  but  try  to  be  above  the  average  in  the  quality 
of  the  rabbits  produced. 

14.  Do  not  waste  time  on  attempts  to  fix  unimportant  characters  in  a 

utility  rabbit.  Do  not  expect  to  develop  a  new  breed  in  a  short 
time  because  new  breeds  are  only  developed  after  many  years 
of  the  most  careful  selection  and  breeding. 


56  CALIFORNIA  AGRICULTURAL  EXTENSION  SERVICE  [CiRC.  9 

REFERENCES 

PEEIODICALS 

American  Eahhit  Magazine,  Pomona,  Calif. 

National  Fancier,  York,  Pa. 

Pacific  Coast  Babbit  Journal,  Los  Angeles,  Calif. 

Pet  StocJc  Journal,  Gallon,  Ohio. 

Small  Stock  Magazine,  Lamoni,  Iowa. 

SERIAL  PUBLICATIONS 
Dearbon,  Ned. 

1920.     Rabbit  raising.    U.  S.  D.  A.,  Farmers'  Bulletin  1090:  1-30,  20  figs. 
Rommel,  George  M. 

1920.     Essentials  of  animal  breeding.     U.  S.  D.  A.,  Farmers'  Bulletin  1167: 
1-38,  32  figs. 
Collins,  M.  D. 

1922.     Rabbit  raising.     Nevada  Ext.  Bui.  29:  1-34.     Illus. 
Dixon,  Joseph. 

1922.     Directions  for  the  tanning  and  dressing  of  furs.     California  Agr.  Exp. 
Sta.  Cir.  237:  1-5.     3  figs. 
Frey,  R.  W.,  I.  D.  Clarke,  and  F.  P.  Veitch. 

1922.     Home  tanning  of  leather  and  small  skins.    U.  S.  D.  A.,  Farmers'  Bulle- 
tin 1334:  1-29.     9  figs. 
Green,  D.  Monroe. 

1927.     Rabbit  skins  for  fur.    U.  S.  D.  A.  Farmers'  Bulletin  1519:  1-13.    7  figs. 

BOOKS  AND  PAMPHLETS 
Farrington,  Edward  I. 

1919.  Practical  rabbit  keeping.     166   pp.,   illus.     Robert   McBride   and   Co., 

New  York. 
Sherlock,  Chelsa  C. 

1920.  Care  and  management  of  rabbits.     248  pp.,  illus.     David  McKay  Co., 

Philadelphia. 
Washburn,  F.  L. 

1920.     The  rabbit  book.     200  pp.,  83  figs.    J.  B.  Lippincott  Co.,  Philadelphia. 
Meek,  Marcellus  W. 

1924.     Fur  rabbits.    139  pp.,  illus.    Published  by  author,  Arcadia,  Calif. 
Gibson,  Charles  S. 

1926.     Breeding  and  care  of  rabbits.    216  pp.,  illus.     Published  by  the  author. 
West  Los  Angeles,  Calif. 
American  Rabbit  and  Cavy  Breeders  Association,  The,  A.  W.  Weygandt,  Sec. 
1926.     Guide  book  and  standard — rabbits  and  cavies.     252  pp.,  illus.     Ameri- 
can Rabbit  and  Cavy  Breeders  Association,  Chicago,  111. 
Meek,  Marcellus  W. 

1926.     Diseases  and  treatment  of  the  rabbit.     37  pp.,  illus.    National  Associa- 
tion of  Rabbit  Industries,  Arcadia,  Calif. 


